Encoder available at Mouser for about $1.38 Part: Bourns PEC16-4020F-S0024
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Replacing my OT encoders was one of the most stressful soldering jobs Iâve ever done. Not particularly difficult, but having to actually destroy the old encoders in order to remove them made me quite anxious!
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Canât you remove them just with unsoldering?
I did with MC307 encoders.
Theyâd be very difficult to remove simply by desoldering, as the legs kinda âgripâ the board. Itâs much easier to just dismantle the encoder.
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Iâve seen that video. Itâs freightening 
One of my OTâs encoders had those jumping values, and after a few weeks of gathering courage i ordered some spare encoders and this afternoon i replaced the bad one with help from the video.
And now i have a perfect working OT again!!
Itâs not very easy, but when you have a bit of soldering experience and some guts it can be done.
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Oh noâŚit was an actual issue with the encoders?
I started having issues yesterday with my MD.
I was hoping it might be a weakening battery, or some midi stuff going on that i wasnt paying attention to.
The last time i tried some soldering on my MD, i had to order a new UI board. I murdered the first one 
I have this issue currently. Elektron is sending me new encoders for shipping and I got someone local to do the de/soldering. They stated âWe always recommend you find a local techâŚâ Person is confident so Iâm excited to get a ânewâ OT.
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I recommend ask Elektronsâs support for repairing. Theyâre very helpful. My device is currently being in their workshop because of this issue. Second time, as after they replaced three encoders, a new one started behaving badly
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Hmmm now that i think of itâŚi have a new UI board. Its only a year old. Odd it would start acting up. my murdered UI board if FULL of usuable encoders.
I murdered it when i tried screen replacement on my own. I think thats considerably more difficult to do than the encoders. Should i give it a go�
No fucking way 
Yeah it was a bad encoder (i tried everything). Thatâs too bad you damaged youâre MD UI board⌠
It is a risc doing it yourself ffcoz. I didnât do it if i had some experience and watched the video a couple of times.
Sounds too bad you;re new encoders are acting up
update: took my gratis encoders and OT with me to my local tech and now everything is a-OK.
However: only after the tech had removed the old encoders (75% of the job) we realized that 4 (of 7) encoders were ratcheted. I would have had to pay for the techs work either way so I just said do it.
Now I donât want to cast Elektrons generosity in a bad light. But had they given me the option of 4 free but ratcheted encoders or I would have to source them myself, I would have chosen the latter. A small detail on paper but a big difference in practice.
Just a heads up for anyone being offered parts from Elektron: ensure what theyre offering you is what you want.
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Reviving this thread. Pretty much ALL of the main parameter knobs on my OT have started jumping values or moving really slowly. What are the chances that all the knobs got dirty enough for that to happen all at once vs. some other problem? Would a factory reset possibly fix issues like that?
Nope. You need to send it to Elektron to replace the knobs. Assuming youâve got the very same issue as I ran into.
Is this the same encoder partnumber for MD mk1? What about the big rotary encoder, mine is skipping, anybody knows that part number?
My buddy and I could replace the knobs ourselves, but I canât believe all of the knobs went at the same time. haha.
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Hello everyone!
I have been all day trying to fix the jumping values of my OT mk1, looking on the internet for everything it can find, and trying several things.
I think I have the solution, at least for me.
@Munro, pull off knob cap off and apply one drop in the gap may improve a Little bit but it does not solve the problema.
Akai s3000 encoders are different, and here the problem is not the dirt (although I imagine that in some case it could be).
LyingDalai is right, the encoders that are used the most are the ones that start to malfunction.
In this video, when he disassembles the top of the encoder, you can see a small black ring.
That ring at the bottom has 3 contacts. When you push the encoder thousands of times with force, these contacts bend inward, and stop making good contact.
If you disassemble the top of the encoder as seen in the video, carefully remove the black ring, and push the 3 contacts up a little so that they put more pressure on the base of the encoder, the problem is solved. Take advantage to also clean the contact and be careful with excess oil.
To reassemble the upper part of the encoder, it is enough to fit it and tighten the 4 metal tabs well to hold it firmly.
I had 3 encoders that jumped continuously, and doing this works like the first day. And without having to replace them with new ones.
I hope it helps you!
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@lucassalinas , what exact type of DeOxit do you and @Munro recommend for cleaning OT MkI encoders? Caig F5 Faderlube? Another kind?