Octatrack MKI encoder issue - jumping values


Does anybody else experience similar issues with the encoders? I use 1.30C.
The values get jump back and forth when turning knobs quickly (without pressing them).

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I didn’t noticed that. Can’t test tonight, not with my OT. I usually press buttons.

This happens when encoders get dirty, but they probably don’t need to be replaced. Depending on the design and how brave you are, you can open them up, clean them and put them back together, sometimes without even removing them from the PCB.

I cleaned the encoder in my Akai S5000 according to the instructions in this clip last month and it works like new now. I added a small drop of Deoxit Faderlube after cleaning before I put it back together, to replace the thin layer of oil that was in there when I opened it and was washed off by the cleaning.

It would be more work to access them in an Octatrack but the same principle should apply, I’d be shocked if the OT used optical encoders or anything like that, especially at its price point (adjusting for inflation a maxed out s5000 retailed for more than twice what a new OT costs and it’s built like a tank).

If you’re less lucky, they’re actually starting to fail and need replacing, but it couldn’t hurt to check. Also, since they’re push encoders they’ll be a bit more complex inside, so proceed with caution and be prepared for the possibility something will pop out when you open the encoder up and you’ll need to replace it after all)

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Try some DeOxit. Probably dirty. Works for me on encoders regularly.

EDIT: Only a small amount like one drop.

Do you have any specific instructions on how one should go about applying it? I have 3 encoders on my OT mki that are starting to get fiddly.

I advise to contact Elektron support and get an estimate of the repair costs.
Doesn’t hurt to ask :slight_smile:


Pull off knob cap off and apply one drop in the gap, wait a few seconds, twist the encoder a few times, wait a couple of minutes, twist the encoder several times, done.

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I get this on the Level encoder. For better or worse, I’ve just adapted to turning it a bit slower

Thanks for the replies, guys!

My OT is still being in warranty, and Elektron support has asked me to send my device to repair. However this means that I have to live without my OT for weeks :slight_smile: And unfortunately it will travel through countries which I always find risky to get additional damage.

Those three knobs (A,C, and E) are affected that I use the most. What I really don’t get is that how this issue can come up. I ordered my OT as a brand new device cca. 1.5 year ago. I haven’t used it excessively, and I have a dust cover on it. Is it a quality issue?

Such problem comes from pushing while turning very often.
You’d better send it back to Elektron, there are chances they will change all of them while they’re at it. And your unit will be as new :slight_smile:

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It seems to work fine other than the ultra fast scrolling.
But I don’t think it was designed to handle that kind of speed plus doesn’t seem too practical to use as you’ll most likely over scroll.

I don’t see this as a defect.

Cuz you have to be honest with yourself, are you really going to be using it often at that ultra high speed scrolling?
And also returning not only cost Elektron time but money that could be used to further develope other things.

I’d say just hang onto it.
Think about all the money spent trying to fix every little issue a customer had.

My brand new DT had some chaffing at the edge of the display. Sort of looked like a chip.
I thought it was a protective screen cover but it wasn’t.
Quality control is never going to be flawless every single unit. Some you just have to live with. But a more serious defect is understandable.

Interesting. What does mean very often? :smiley: So the majority of OT users around don’t push and turn knobs very often? Especially in sample editor.

I find this statement more accurate: the encoders on my OT went bad way too early :smiley:

I’m that guy who is going to return his device for repairing because some encoders (especially “E”) is getting really unusable :wink:
Otherwise nobody should explain him or herself because of a repairing request for a purchased product that does’n work as expected.

By posting the video you were inviting feedback with the issue, I was just giving mine. You don’t have to explain anything here.

But if it’s a repairing request like you stated, you should make a ticket in the customer support page. They will get you off in the right direction.

Yeah, and I appreciate all of your feedback including your post. I just wanted to reply that even though I saw your view point I couldn’t agree with it completely, especially in current case. Didn’t want to be offensive, sry.

In one of my earlier posts I already mentioned that I had talked to Elektron support and it was their recommendation to send my unit to repair. This thread and my discussion with Elektron support ran in parallel.

So those of you who recommend deoxit (or similar products), have you used it on the OT with success or are is this from experience with other devices.


So I tested, it’s ok for my minimum 6 years old OT.


I mean that I encountered such problem on my OT (I had had it for 2 years and it had been bought 2nd hand).
And asking Elektron to fix it was like getting a new OT. Just trying to help, not to judge.

Sure, I just found it funny.
Thanks man!

Other devices, but it’s relevant to any encoders that use a similar techology.

But I’ve never done it on push encoders so I can’t vouch for it being effective on them (although it likely is).

Also I’ve never had success using the technique of aplying it to the shaft and letting it work its way in. For encoders, the only thing that has worked for me is physically opening them up and cleaning the contacts by hand. I did get some improvement in an especially jumpy encoder in an old DR660 without opening it up, and it’s usable now but it still jumps when I turn it fast.

For potentiometers I’ve always been able to spray the deoxit in through an opening (the location depends on the specific design) with non-sealed varieties, and for the sealed kind I’ve never had to clean one yet, I’ve got stuff with sealed pots that go back to the 80s that haven’t worn out or gone scratchy yet.

But it wouldn’t do any harm to give it a shot. Just be sure to use control cleaner (i.e. lubricated cleaner) rather than contact cleaner (no lubrication)!

The encoder in the S5000 was so far gone that it hardly worked at all and when it did it was jsut spitting out random values. It took about 5 minutes to open it up, clean it, relubricate it and put it back together, and it has worked absolutely flawlessly ever sicne. The only reservation I’d have with the OT is the fact that they’re push encoders, sicne that might make it more ifficult to take apart and reassemble, but beyond that it would probably work very well.

But also if it’s still on warranty that’s WAY too soon for encoders to fail, so it might be worth replacing them altogether jsut to be on the safe side. It’s extremely unlikely there’s anything mechanically wrong with them beyond being a bit diry but if you ca get it done free, then why not?

If it was off warranty I’d say clean it and also research compatible encoders of higher quality, and get a competent tech to swap them in for the originals (which is pretty simple, any skilled electronics hobbyist should have no trouble with it and if the OT wasn’t so expensive I’d be encouraging you to do it yourself, because it’s a great skill to have - not only can you do the most common type of repair on your gear yourself you can also find a lot of gear cheap or free that just needs to have controls replaced).