Red eye


The adafruit inverted white on black screens are way easier on the eyes for long sessions. Pixel edges are noticeably sharper than the stock screens. Thanks again to everyone that shared info in this thread.

Also want to note that I hit my skill limit with desoldering and took both units into SynthsWhen for a professional upgrade (respected synth repair shop here in Toronto). I started at 400F and worked up to 650 on the MD solder points before realizing that this wasn’t the job for me. Just a suggestion to figure out where your limits are - there’s no sense in ruining exotic synths on a DIY job!


Nice job. Definitely doable!
My SFX-6 has had a back-light flicker for some time now. I assume it’s a similar part, which is good news.


oh man…the pair is SO HOT. that looks great


What do you mean? Solder wasn’t adhering to the pins or something?


Soldering is the easy part. Desoldering is harder. The synth tech said he had to go up to 725F, which aligns with some other advice I found about ‘storing up heat’ in the solder tip so the solder pools quickly for desoldering tape or a solder sucker. I also should have used flux paste. Going to practice on some junk electronics so I’m better prepared for the next job.


same screen for MD and MnM? i think I’m gonna do both.


I just ordered a MD, but can’t see the red screen being any worse than the one on the MnM or OT…I think I may even prefer it. Regardless, I’d much rather red eye than pink eye or brown eye :wink:


These look fucking sweet! I’d love these screens on my MnM and newly purchases MD, too bad I have zero soldering/electrical skills.


I do a lot of soldering with my other hobby (quadcopters / RC stuff), so I’m constantly soldering small circuit boards and wiring. I’ve found 700F to be the best all around temp especially when working with small parts. It allows you to get things done quickly as long as you understand you can’t hold it there too long without doing damage, but at the same time you won’t have to either. Flux is a must for everything, but use some isopropyl alcohol to clean the area afterwards.

It’s also an incredible difference to have a good quality iron. They heat quickly, but most importantly re-heat very fast and stay consistent. You can find clones of Hakko 936 or 937’s on Ebay or Amazon for $50-75. Even if you’re just occasionally soldering it’s still absolutely worth it and will last a lifetime. Those cheap $10-20 all in one wand irons are junk, but at the time you don’t realize how much harder of a job you’re making it. Once you switch to something decent it becomes enjoyable.

I’m still weary of working on expensive music gear though! I could probably do it, but would rather leave it to a pro when it comes to a something like an Elektron box or other high end item.


Hi Technics, that’s some good info! I have a Weller WES51 but not enough experience to wield it skillfully for a job like this. I got the solder to melt but it didn’t pool enough for removal. Passing the job to a pro technician also transfers the risk in case something goes awry. I’ll be bolder for future work though. Just stripped down a cheap amplifier and I’m going to desolder/resolder enough parts till I’m comfortable with that process.


I don’t know what “brown eye” is but maybe I don’t want to know…

Although the red MD screen has never caused me troubles, I must admit I prefer the MnM/OT screen. The grey/blue hue makes the text appear more sharp for me.


Brown eye = butt-hole :wink:


i tried it…i fucked my MD. it is now broken. extremely sad. i should NEVER have tried…or even THOUGHT of trying.

complete fucking idiot i am.


tell me more. what broke?


desoldering the screen…i think i overheated two of the points. and ruined two contacts. the boot up process stops half way through start up.

its dead :frowning:
im so freakin upset.


i killed my first elektron and a CLASSIC piece of gear.


Hmm, I wouldnt expect contact damage to cause the above problem.
When you say, stops half way during boot up. Is your screen actually working?

Also, I did the same install a few weeks back, the pcb solder is quite stubborn and I was glad not to severely damage the pads.


Bad News to hear this…. you confirmed with a technician that MD is dead rip? or with Elektron?


so only the bottom row of track lights [upper left] and last 8 trigs go through the power cycle light show dance, the screen lights up but is just pixel noise. and thats as far a it goes. apparently one of the points i fucked is the ground.

ignore the white lines on the screen. thats just the screen protector. its left it on for now.
id post an image my soldering, but im too embarrassed at the job i did.


remember, you need to turn up the contrast on the new screen. it’ll look blank even if it’s done correctly.
the contrast is a tiny plastic mini screwdriver thing underneath the track select jog wheel. remove the jog wheel and you’ll find it.