I currently have stock, so let me know in PM/email, which color you want and give me your details:
- full legal name,
- shipping address,
- email,
- phone.
(detailed purchase info here: Ordering of Elektron Analog Mk1 OLED upgrade kit | xrdelectro)
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So yes, finally! An update - I have stock - the new batch is here and ready to be shipped.
To anyone still wanting an OLED display module, now is the time - while I have stock.
I think I have messaged everyone, who showed interest.
Let me know if I have missed you or itâs a new interest.
Cheers,
Zigmars
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Oh man, looks like I found this thread right on time!
Youâre a legend Zigmars.
I have to admit I skipped from about post 60 down to the end here, so I might be missing some details, but this will work for both the A4 and AR? And are there still colour choices for the screen?
Edit: never mind - actually read your link. All info there.
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Yes, it will work for both A4 (mk1) and AR (mk1) - the display is the same.
And all of the color choices are currently available.
Dang, wish I could justify the cost to upgrade both my A4 and AR Mk1âs.
Til then I shall squint harder to read between the faded linesâŚ
Question tho⌠Is there not a concern with OLED screen image burn in? The Mk 1âs have no auto screen off feature, right?
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This is a concern, but thatâs why this design allows for replacing the OLED panel itself (sliding it out and disconnecting a single ribbon cable) once the soldering of the PCB is done. The OLED panels are stock parts which can be ordered from various places in various colors, much more cheaply as well. There is also a brightness trim pot and brightness adjustment dip switches under the screen to reduce brightness and (presumably) lengthen the life of the screen.
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Finally got around to installing mine, I had the screens since last Feb but never found the time.
I installed the A4 first with yellow screen. The Yihua 929 makes desoldering a breeze, probably 10 minutes to remove the solder.
Soldering the ground pin I found difficult due to the location making it awkward to reach.
Here you can see a comparison between a Digitone. Note the screen protectors are still on both screens so they are a bit matte.
I would say the Digitone looks paler in comparison to the more saturated and bright replacement on the A4. I thought maybe I could lessen the intensity on the A4 for a fairer comparison, but adjusting the contrast trimmer on the PCB made no difference.
The following week I attempted the Rytm, whole process for getting the screen off went a lot faster with experience. I pinched the retainers on the top to remove the desoldered screen more easily, leaving the retainers attached to main pcb.
However for whatever reason, I had a really frustrating time soldering the ground pin on the Rytm. I couldnât get a good joint between pad and pin. I tried soldering and desoldering several times, eventually I gave up and asked someone more experienced to try but even they had difficulty.
The resultant joint still looks bad and I think itâs causing an issue with switching on the Rytm. Sometimes when I switch it on it the screen doesnât come on. I have to power it off and on quickly to get the screen to come on. I will have to revisit re-soldering the ground pin again.
The white OLED is shown against a Digitakt. The replacement seems more saturated/creamy than the Elektron equivalent. The Digitakt seems more blueish.
I saw there were some stuck pixels on the bottom row so I decided to try other colours, which turned out fine.
My absolute favourite at the moment is orange, this display has a mirror like reflective background unlike the others which have a black screen. When it is off you could mistake it for an LCD.
However when it is on it is a different story, with its reflections it has an almost 3d-like appearance. The reflected light gives a more warm and inviting ambiance.
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Iâve got two Analog Keys and nervous about LCD screens eventually going so this is looking more and more interesting. So Iâd be wanting to get 2 of these. But I have a fear of taking a project on like this. With many of these already been done, are there videos and equipment requirements? Specifically the desoldering & soldering, step by step prep? Are there shops that do this kind of work? Local folks to north shore of Boston, MA USA? I want my Analog Keys to live forever, this feels like it could extend their life for sure.
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Itâs a great upgrade, but itâs fairly involved 
there are loads of tips and experiences in this thread. @infekted posted an excellent video detailing their process with the A4 Mk1 not very long ago:
And I posted a very long writeup with quite a few photos of my process with the Analog Keys:
The AK is much more time consuming to disassemble. There are a whole lot of fasteners to remove before you can get to the display module.
If you can find someone to do the work, I think that would be ideal, and I feel like you could certainly find someone to do it. Maybe you can search for electronics repair, or someone else might have a contact in that area 
I hope youâre able to do it. I have the same impulse you did, I want my Analog Keys to live forever. It feels better to use and future proofed now 
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Thank you! Both of these were great, great resources I missed earlier! The video also provides some suggestions on tools. After watching/reading, Iâm even more petrified to do it myself so will look for a local shop/expert and get these so I at least have them ready. Itâs the soldering/desoldering that scares me. Iâve replaced iPhone screens and have done plenty assembly/disassembly, but I get nervous with a soldering iron and feel like you probably need to have the feel for heat/timing, handling.
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Yup, I thought I was going to get this and install until I saw the video 
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@dobermate (answering from the âyour setupsâ thread) I got my OLED screen for my AK from Zigmars here 
I got a local repair shop nearby (durham, nc) to do the repair. They charged me $100 but said afterwards they would charge more if someone brought in the same request 
apparently the de-soldering was tougher than expected, and the disassembly is a bit of a pain. Lots of resources in this thread if youâre inclined to try it yourself
Overall, Iâm really happy with it! Feel like itâs breathing new life into the instrument. And I also moved the AK into a new position where the screen and control are more accessible (previously it was sitting on top of an electric piano, very parallel to the ground). The foam around the screen didnât make a perfect fit but I donât notice at all from my angle.
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Thanks for the details - great to hear youâre happy with it!
Another happy customer here. The photo doesnât do the new OLED justice. In real life itâs more Crisp and the graphics respond way faster than the old fading LCD. Thanks Zigmars!!!
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After using the new OLED under various light conditions, I am happy to report no eye strain or fatigue no matter how long I spend playing.
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Big thanks to @zigmars ! 
Bought your screen some time ago, and today was the right time to do the replacement on the AK. Also many thanks to @Sip for documenting the replacement. 
Some input for those that would go for it :
- I didnât unscrew the larger bottom screws for the keyboard
- I desoldered the screen with a desoldering iron with vacuum pump from the bottom, only the 2 pins on the side I did from above. This was easier as the pins on top are too close for the desoldering iron and didnât suck tin completely out
- I kept the 4 original plastic spacers
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Hi Zigmars, do you still produce OLED displays? I need a sisply for my Analog Keys. Thanks, Andrea.
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Hi Zigmars,
Have you any idea what might be the issue with my screen, itâs buggy and wonât move off the ARP screen.
I installed the screen long ago and it had this issue, never had any spare time so the A4 has sat for over a year, I was thinking it might be a cold joint so today I desoldered all the joints and resoldered with a new tip and better solder, however as you can see by the video itâs buggy and still stuck on ARP screen. Is this something youâve come across before?
yes, this most likely is - one of the DIP switches under OLED panel is switched on.
edit: DIP 7 to be precise
(see DIP switches and debug modes | xrdelectro for reference)
to access those DIPs, you will need to unlatch the plastic OLED bracket.
there are 4 snap hooks that hold the bracket onto PCB.
2 on the left side, 2 - right.
so I would go first pressing top ones toward one another, to let them detach from PCB,
then the bottom ones.
after that you should easily see and be able to access the DIP switches.
make sure all 7 are switched off (the DIP 7 âonâ will enable the exact behaviour yours is showing)