Hi chaps. Having trouble sequencing/playing my MS20 mini from my A4. Should be a relatively simple task but i’m stumped so though I would ask you guys. I have followed the literature Elektron put online regarding sequencing external gear but no luck. Must be doing something wrong and apoligies if its something obvious, hopefully it is.
Here’s a short vid, not even a minute long.
Thanks in advance.
Trig is not the right output - you need S-trig [Gate Type] & Hz/V [Pitch type] as you already have
Plus you need to show settings
i’ll dig out an older link on to how to do this, very easy ! (or you can search)
Cables in to MS will disconnect keyboard btw - that much is normal
S-trig means ‘Short’ btw
Ah mate thanks for the help. Will try this asap and report back!
Fwiw - C4 1v + C7 8v gives an ideal spread for the way the A4 keys are centred
The central octave default A4 mini keyboard will then play the central range of the MS keys
Nominally you should only get 3 good octaves (use MS footage to adjust pitch)
But if you centre the pitch ranges this way you can sneak a lower one in quite easy
Either side of that it will fall apart …
Internally it’s panning out like this
C2 0.25v (mini can’t go here, likely fails at tracking)
C3 0.5v (mini can’t go here, should track though)
C4 1v (lowest voltage output on mini)
C5 2v (default AFour low c for mid octave i.e. C5)
C6 4v (default AFour high c for mid octave i.e. C6)
C7 8v (highest voltage output on mini)
C8 16v* (not possible, capped at 10 in AFour)
mini oscillator range/tracking will depend on where you have the respective footages and modulations etc
if you want the a4 keys to default offset from this range just change C4 & C7 at top of post to suit up or down
If the mini isn’t well calibrated (mainly tracking) there may be a need to fine tune values, but at least the mini has its own tuning offset
S-Trig voltage settings value should be 5v btw
I think it’s time to sticky this kind of post to make it easier to find
The other threads linked above touch on other aspects to use with the other cv channels if spare
This should definitely be stickied. Great info, thanks!
Yep this’ll come in handy at some point here too, thanks!
Corrected the settings etc… Still no joy. Done another short vid to show you just in case you guys can spot what is wrong. Thanks again.
Looks like you’ve got the cables the right way round, hmm, fault finder time !
Ring= Red = Right
So CVB goes to the Top for Pitch as you have it
I presume your insert cable is sound, so, is your A4 bust, the CV outs can go south (albeit in exceptional circumstances)
Try setting CVC for now to Value Lin
Make the Voltage range be e.g. -1v to 1v
Assign an LFO to that (dest value CVC), make it square and crank up depth
swap over that Insert cable in CVC/D outlet
and put the white cable on the Total Input
Have no other modulations set and bring up the T.Ext value on the LPF e.g., make sure to close the filter halfway first so you can hear the modulation effect
I guess i’m saying, check your A4 and cables by testing a simple ‘external’ LFO out, do the same for CVD and choose a different shape, swap the cables over (btw if white is not CVC switch the cables around in your second video, Ring Red for CVB)
If that’s all good or you know your A4 and cables are fine then … it ain’t track mute, but have you selected The source Track in the settings page to be CV track (looks good in 1st vid, check both are)
To keep it simple i’d disconnect the MIDI and USB for now as i’ve no idea how that’s all plumbed behind the scenes
Nothing else in MS either and you have a vanilla patch already
Puzzled a bit as to where to turn next, maybe don’t assume your insert cable is coloured correctly - is it definitely separating tip from ring - try in headphone out and set up an A4 sound with pan to test it isn’t just copying the signal
hook e.g. the ESP Trig Out (far right) to the Initial level VCA to ‘drone’ your MS whilst you try out lfo adjustments on A4
If cable is duff, use normal TS cables, just ground CVB and CVD and then use CVA and CVC
Reduce the variables for what might be wrong here, see how that goes, maybe check your patch points on the ms by cabling up to the inputs only on that … wheel to pitch, button to trig e.g.
Also, always test on an empty pattern and new kit when you can, just keeps it simple and easy to rule out other things whilst you rule out hardware issues
Did you finally get this working ? Keen to hear what the root cause of the issue might have been !
Hi mate, tried some of the things you suggested, no joy. Going to have another go tomorrow, i suspect the cables or the 1/4 to 1/8 jack adapters are no good. I’ve ordered some hosa ones, might take a little while to arrive but will certainly report back!
Appreciate the help.
Resurrecting an olde but goodie here. Just wanted to point out that if anybody just doesn’t have the energy to figure out all this tuning stuff and just wants to have a ball with the MS20 + A4/AK…
Make some hats! Start triggering the noise and ring mods on the MS20 and have a freaking ball. I always have trouble getting as much hat and cymbal sounds in my AK creations because they tend to eat up one of the voices too much, especially when you want to run them on a 16th. Using the MS20 in this role is fantastic! You can use the CV out that would normally go to the pitch and plug that sucker in all sorts of holes for all sorts of stuff.
this MS20 tutorial video is a good starter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4T2Y6xms52Y
and this one from Ippei should inspire some ideas https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbsX1B3QR3I
Hello!
Just wanted to update you all on this thread.
It appears i’ve finally worked it out and now hopefully because of this thread it will help many others too.
First things first… As I stated in the video… 1/4" to 1/8" jack adapters ARE GARBAGE. Don’t waste your time doing this with them, you can buy them cheap on ebay but they’re cheap for a reason, they don’t work. I THINK elektron may tell you in their guide that you can use them but don’t bother, some perhaps do work but most on the market i found to be poor quality and don’t transfer voltage correctly. I know in my video I show you all a stereo adapter but I can assure you I tried using mono adapters… I just picked up the nearest one to hand for the purpose of the video.
Secondly… Again as I stated in the video I accidentally bought these… https://www.absolutemusic.co.uk/hosa-ypp-117-y-cable-1-4-inch-balanced-jack-to-dual-mono-jack-sockets.html?source=shopping&sku=hosypp117&gclid=CJiu5ung1dACFQcQ0wodWl0Hfw
Don’t bother even looking for the Hosa 1/4" stereo to x2 1/8" mono Y/Insert cable because you won’t find them in the UK and they seem to be rare in the US too.
Thirdly… I bought these… http://www.gear4music.com/G4M/Mono-Minijack-35mm-1-4inch-Jack-Cable-3m/3CS
These cables are good quality and a fair price.
This did the trick for me. I hope this saves a lot of other people time and effort also. Please be sure to read the other linked info on here by the other Elektronauts who probably know more than me.
Feel free to ask questions!