@Ace - Did you invert the colors of your screen or is that just from the angle of the photo? I dig DOS-style white-on-black screens so I’m just curious.
Glad I inspired you… even if I didn’t actually do anything!
Another thing, I had to have my monomachine fixed for another reason. I brought it in to “The Good Guys” in St. Paul MN and they actually fixed some issue with a loose connection on the part where the PSU connects to the unit. I haven’t had a booting issue since.
Hey, I actually purchased it this way on eBay. They guy said some place installed it for him. It is inverted and I much prefer the inverted look to the original, but unfortunately I couldn’t tell you much more. I suppose I could ask the guy if you’d like… let me know.
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This is an older, but relevant thread to a question I have. I have a Monomachine that has a couple of small, yet annoying pieces of lint under the screen - they are reasonably visible, and who knows how they got in there. One of them moves if I tap gently on the screen, so I suppose it’s sort of “stuck” on the underneath of the top screen.
The question is - since you’ve had yours apart (also looked at your photos), would I be right that if I was able to get the encoders off, take out the 6 screws and remove the metal top that I’d be able to wipe off the underside of the LCD screen/glass - or do you think it might be a more involved process?
Hope what I’m asking makes sense.
Thanks.
If I recall correctly, you have to remove those 6 screws, all of the encoder knobs, but I think that’s it… I can’t remember honestly. I did take some pictures when I tore it all apart, maybe that will help. You can’t see the front cover, but you can see that it’s separated at the LCD screen, so you should be able to easily get behind it…
Sorry I’m not much more help :S
Bumping an old thread because I believe you have my old Monomachine with the inverted screen. 
The wires on MIDI if I recall correctly is because I had a custom synth inside the MNM at one point. (drum rompler) I must of forgot to remove the wires when I sold it to someone locally.
Anyhow the inverted screen was purchased from Adafruit. It works on the MKII as well, though does not work on the Octatrack (different driver)
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Hey - hah, that’d be really funny if I got the Monomachine from you - I recall I purchased it, but then it had an issue and I returned it, but then you ended up selling it much cheaper and I was like “I’ll totally take it for that”. I had bought another Monomachine at the same time (before yours came back up) so I kept both, and swapped the one with a good screen (yours) for the other one so that the PSU issue I had was fixed.
The funny thing is, I just plugged in my old units again and one wouldn’t boot (after showing a very dimmed screen). I had taken it apart, unplugged cables, plugged it back in and it worked again. I was also looking for a new LCD -so that’s extremely helpful!
ALSO hilarious, when it was disassembled, I saw those cables on the MIDI port and wondered what the hell they were there for - now I know! Only 6 years later!!!
Hi - thanks for this, very helpful. I’m another new owner with the same problem (now in 2021!) just wondering if there is a special technique for removing the knobs and getting rid of static?
Best,
Charlie
Hey - sorry for the super late reply.
As I think this will become a common occurrence, I think it’s worth reviving the thread to answer questions.
I will say that there is no special technique for removing knobs. They just pull off. They can be very tight, but they do come off. I try to ensure to use my thumb and at least two fingers at the base and pull up, using a bit of leverage from the main case against my fingers.
There are anti-static wrist bands you can buy. I actually bought a really nice kit from ifixit (here) that has one of those. I believe you attach the clamp to a metal piece to ground yourself.
I hope that helps.
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made an account to say i ran into this problem, followed advice given here, and am now back to synthesizing. 
not sure what exactly the problem was i sort of just wiggled the cables. to anyone reading it is fabulously simple given you have a torx driver. it’s also made for a great opportunity to clean and buff my mono (which came to me used and gunky Dx). thank you to the community esp ace and doof
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Just opened my MM for the hundredth time to reseat the cables. Easy enough fix I guess but it’s still an annoying problem. I wouldn’t dare gig with the MM because you never know if it will freeze and then simply not reboot.
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There a couple of additional things you might try. Make sure to wipe any oxidation off the pins with a Q-Tip or something. You can also dip the Q-Tip in some 70% isopropyl alcohol for a deeper clean. Another trick is you might want to bend the pins alternate ways ever so slightly. This should make the friction to the connector a little higher. Do not over bend. Finally it may be the ribbon cable has to be replaced. I would try the other stuff as it is a lot easier.
For getting the knobs and encoders off a classic trick is to use a spoon. Go very slowly and gently.
Hope this helps and good luck.
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I just came across this problem with my MnM MKII and I was able to get it up and running after following hints from thread.
For me what did it was to remove the battery and put it back on, so I have a suspicion that the battery may be running its course. Unfortunately I did not get the specs for the battery so I’ll have to Google that to see if that’s something I could buy from somewhere and replace the old one. If anyone knows, that’ll be super not just for me but for others.
What are your thoughts about this battery tweak?
I have randomly had this issue for years. I think that if it’s a battery issue, it would become more and more frequent as the battery worsens. I personally don’t think that’s the main issue, but I could obviously be wrong!
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Hi - I have a Mk II and it ends in 57 instead of 56. Only the Mk II units can do the User Waves as I recall so if yours can do that, I think that’s what you have. I’m 99.9% sure the Mk I and the Mk II use the same PSU specs FWIW.
@sweet_trip You could be right about the battery, interesting. Another possibility is that something got a bit of jostling during disassembly/assembly which fixed the issue for now. Troubleshooting is kind of like wrestling with shadows sometimes IMHO.
And while I’m here, I hope all of you all at Elektronauts have a great 2022! (not on forums much these days)
Much to my horror I ran into the boot screen freeze this week … followed the instructions here, reseated the cables and cleaned connections with 70% iso and (touch wood) booting problem has now vanished! So relieved!!! Just go reeeeeeally slow on the knob removal and don’t try to think too much about the fact that you’re operating on a $4000 non-replaceable, unobtanium musical instrument 
… holy moly.
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Yes, prices nowadays are a joke.
What is it with the booting problem? Always been working fine since 2009 (mkii non drive+). Note I had replaced encoders and battery about 2 years ago. When earlier this year no boot. Opened up and replugged the I/O to motherboard. Worked for a few days and no boot again. I ended up putting it away for months. Last week, turned it on and it has been fine for the whole week! Its not loose contacts, not poor contacts and its not battery. The only thing I can think is temperature - regularly 25-30 degrees C in Australian summer and now 12-18 degrees in our winter. I personally suspect firmware booting is not tolerant enough to reliably boot under all conditions.
I had this issue recently and posted about it above. At first I thought it was the battery because the first 3 times the machine didn’t boot, taking the battery out and putting it back in solved the issue for a few hours up to about a day.
The forth time it happened and I took the battery out and put it back in, it didn’t work. Instead I carefully readjusted the pins on all connectors so they wouldn’t be loose, connected the ribbons back on, and it has been solid ever since.
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I’m glad that’s your experience
When mine didn’t boot I tried everytrhing and nothing fixed it.
I ended up selling it for 400 euro as parts and that was the end of my Elektron journey that included all their machines up to RYTM mk1. I didn’t buy anything Elektron since then. I just have my OT-1.
I loved the old stuff my MnM MKII and the MDUW along with the 3 black OT-1, A4, and RYTM, but when the ring broke I sold them all.
I looked many times to get an MnM but prices are a joke now. Looking at what the MnM board was I definitely won’t be paying today’s prices. Especially when looking inside my Juno60. 