is any soldering required? or is it simple to assemble for non electronics genius? Love the Tonari on by the way.
It needs soldering.
My box is made , I had one I could hack apart , I just need to make holes in the back and something to hang cables onto.
darn I need to work on my soldering skills
step 1 and 2 done. Had some trouble identifying the resistors at first. Recommend using https://www.digikey.com/en/resources/conversion-calculators/conversion-calculator-resistor-color-code-5-band for it.
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How long did it take so far?
about 1,5 hour this included identifying and marking all the different kinds off resistors.
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For anyone building the Lil’ Erebus who wants to make their set complete; I am currently selling a full Hades DIY kit right now!
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i found a flyer in the Lil erebus kit.
Is this the erebus v3?
3osc 35 patch points and an onboard clock… looks really sweet, wonder what the pricing will be. somewhere in the range of €500/600 ??
aargh … 
best kits came always with well sorted parts and instructions in the past 
hades was sold without resistors so i‘ve shopped them well sorted by BOM these days …
have fun!!!
you could give some MIDI latency infos when ready?
will do , plan on sequencing it with Digitakt.
if that doesn’t cut it i will use the cv on the keystep
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hello alll.
i finished to build one some days ago. all seem ok, but unfortunately, osc1 and osc2 dont stay in tune, although i previously tune them correctly.
The scale stay ok, osc 1 saty ok, but osc 2,is always detuned when i replugged it… anybody have an idea??
thanks
Hi, Just coming back to this thread- Built and finished mines yesterday.
Does anyone have an knowledge that they can pass on about how to test the voltages? I have a digital multimeter which i’ve only used for testing resistors and all worked fine but can’t for the life of me understand the voltage testing… The Erebus unit powers on - good sign… 
This is the part i’m meaning - ( On any TL074 IC, Pin 4 -> +12V +/- 0,5V
Pin 11 -> -12V +/- 0,5V )
Could anyone explain how to do this? Feel like an idiot for asking after building it but needs must.
Thanks
I will one day own an Erebus… I’ve always loved the sound and I think this kit is excellent.
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You da man! Thats the exact one - cheers. I will try out when i’m home.
So, just to check - i’m putting the black on pin 11 and the red on pin 4? What should it show up with? 12v? what does the +/- 0,5V mean and show up with on the multimeter?
Something tells me this is pretty simple and i’m just not grasping it yet…
If I short them… does it just show up with nothing on the multimeter (general query to help my understanding )
Thanks again for taking the time out to reply.
Yeah man, very nice sounding synth indeed, i’d say the kit is worth the money ( don’t want too speak too soon, though… lol )
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That’s a range on the 12 volts meaning readings of 11.5 -> 12.5 are OK.
Shorting between pins may not cause a problem – but it may, depending on the IC. It can potentially destroy an IC, it depends on the layout of pins on the IC, so as a general rule you never want to short between pins. Plus whatever you read on the multimeter will then be suspect too.
For clarity a multimeter in voltage measurement mode will have a very high resistance between the probes – meaning it conducts very very little current between the two probes – so you are safe in general measuring between any two pins anywhere.
Obviously for your safety you never want to be measuring on something with higher voltages – zap you’re dead!
ADDED: Just a little extra polish on this. When measuring a changing voltage with a DC multimeter the reading you get will be unpredictable, depending how fast the meter is and how fast the signal is moving. So DC voltage meters are generally for measuring steady voltages. There is an instrument for measuring changing voltages, and measuring how fast they change – that’s an oscilloscope.
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Cool - thanks for the info. I’ll get testing today. Hope it works.
Just out of curiosity, how do I check the -12v and +12v? Is there a setting or button that I need to press or will it automatically come up?
I thought I would be testing with black lead onto PIN 11 and Red on to PIN 4 for +12 but then i’m thinking it says PIN 11 for -12v? Can’t seem to get my noggin around this one.
Follow the conventions: red probe is “hot”, black probe is common/ground/earth. As long as you put the red probe on the voltage source and the black probe on a ground point (either a leg on the chip or a test point on the circuit board) then the meter will read the voltage correctly, be it (+) or (-). Don’t make it more complicated than it needs to be. If you’re still struggling, try google, instructables, adafruit.com or something similar. I’m sure there are a ton of tutorials out there for learning how to test circuits. I’m actually surprised the build guide doesn’t have a quick section on trouble-shooting / testing.
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