I did not say anything about plastic nuts this time. People were complaining about things - other than nuts - related to this product and company much earlier in the thread.
I found those old posts while looking for cool 2600M videos. I just thought those old comments were amusing. Not interested in calling out particular people over the past though. If you want to revisit them just click Jan 2021 on the right and scroll.
I’m probably going to end up building a laser-cut plywood “cover” that works something like how I imagine the original cover works, or how I imagine a decksaver would be designed. It turns out that the jacks and speakers mildly trigger my wife’s trypophobia, so I need to do something about that.
As far as sound goes:
The 2600m sounds good, and it feels good too. It feels more premium than the Syntrx (which is a great synth, but the metal panels feel flimsy and I worry about rubbing off the silkscreening). Although the 2600 is more immediate than the Syntrx due to its normaled signal path, more effort and study is required to understand the normaling. I went deep faster with the Syntrx, but expect to discover and learn new things with the 2600.
Much like the Syntrx, the speakers sound surprisingly good for their size.
As far as size goes, it’s a little bit bigger than the Syntrx and is probably the largest soundmaking device I own that isn’t a keyboard. All of the controls are easy to manipulate, I usually wear large men’s gloves. If you have kielbasa fingers, it might be worth chasing down a FS. For everyone else, the m seems like the right size.
The nuts are fine. 
I was mildly worried about the PCB mounted jacks, but these jacks don’t require a great deal of force - unlike most of the cheap jacks I used when building Euro modules.
TL;DR: at $1200, the 2600m is a really good value. If you are deeply in love with the 2600, then $2k or more wasn’t unreasonable for this synth. I would have been unhappy if I paid for the LE version and got a silver version of the same case. If I were to gig the 2600 (doubtful), I’d get one of the rolling Pelican cases for it.
BTW, it looks like Detroit Modular dropped their price. Not quite as low as Sweetwater, but it looks like the lowest price outside of Reverb:
(FYI @jdaddyaz)
They also have the FS for only $6k. If I was a synth investor, I’d probably jump on that. I’m pretty sure they have changed hands for more than that on MW already.
Glad to hear about the nuts 
Seriously though glad to hear the speakers sound good.
why’s that? don’t like silver? or you think it’s flimsier because there’s a cutout for the keys too? that’s actually the version I have been referring to, as it’s what I have. note that I’m not offended by your comment, I’m just curious. I don’t plan on using the case unless I move, so I don’t care either way!
SWEET! I’d love to see this!
they really do! I’m amazed by them actually. I do get distortion sometimes, but usually that’s my own fault for just cranking everything.
this is interesting to me, because I still get confused by the Syntrx “circular patching” style. but I’ve also had a 2600 for like 15 years, so it’s second-nature to me.
probably. but the last one I saw sell over there sat for months at sub-$4k. which astounded me. 
The black case has a cut out for a keyboard or SQ-64 as well. My concern is the overall flimsiness of the case. Great for studio storage, might be fine for dragging to a gig in Tokyo or another city with extremely well maintained streets and sidewalks. At the moment, I’m treating the case itself as the fragile collector’s item - it is stored in the closet with its protective shipping cover.
Keep track of the thread below, where I’m adding my laser cut audio stuff as I go. I may build a patch cable rack before I build the 2600m cover.
I find the Syntrx easy because it doesn’t do anything I didn’t ask it to do, and I can look at the patch matrix to see what I’ve asked it to do. I probably won’t even need 15 days to get fully up to speed with the 2600. If someone is on the fence between the 2600 and Syntrx, I think the decision is too personal for me to offer useful advice.
(apologies for the generally low quality - I used the on-camera mic and lowest possible resolution and the Canon M6 doesn’t offer any focusing aids for video)
Plays nicely with friends.
That’s a cool synth. Congrats.
One of the reviews - Stazma’s? - recommended investing in shorter, colored patch cables, as the stock cables are all grey and long enough to hang over, say, the included keyboard if you park the keyboard next to the 2600M.
Thinking of ordering these but I welcome suggestions
I have them in my cart, but the shipping time prevents me from ordering them:
I’m very pleased with these:
The non-braided ones are also good:
Does anyone have a fullsize 2600 and how is it worth the extra cost over the 2600M in terms of build quality, function and sound? Would be great to have one and full size MS20 as well as Syntrx II, Buchla Skylab and so many other gears but space and cost are the issue.
I don’t have a FS, but from the various threads and my experience with the 2600m, I don’t think there is much advantage unless you want a huge 2600. The reverb tank is smaller and the 2600m has plastic nuts. Otherwise, they should be nearly identical.
At this very moment I’m designing a laser-cut cover for the 2600m that will be similar to the FS’s cover (except without latches, this one will balance on top of the 2600m and act as a dust cover rather than a transport cover)
The 2600m is roughly the same size as the Syntrx (slightly wider and not quite as tall). I’m very glad that I don’t have the FS.
I think if you have the space and funds and not performing or traveling the full size is a nice luxury. I love my full size Oberheim keyboard such a joy to play but it is a massive synth that I would hate to take on the road. I have small modular cases and my Elektrons for that purpose. I never perform live so a home studio piece like the full size ARP 2600 would be amazing to use with full size MS 20 and Oberheim synths.
the craftsmanship in this thing [pic 2020 NAMM] it’s an absolute beauty so you’re paying for that and the keyboard along with it’s functions.
that said i (only) have the 2600 M but i definitely intend to take it out live.
I think you have your answer!
I could make more funds and more space available, but I personally don’t see any point. The 2600m’s reverb is fine, and the controls are easy to work with.
I’d rather have the 2600m that I have and a Cascadia and $2k in my pocket than a larger 2600 FS.
From an investment perspective, this might be a good time to buy a FS. But there are much better investments than musical instruments.
right on yeah on the fence and not in rush at either point. I am still getting a handle on my Oberheim, Rytm and Virus TI2 and modulars so have lot on my plate for at least few years.
I don’t have the FS but I have a vintage 2600 and the 2600m. they’re a bit different sounding but not by a ton. the usual “the vintage one is a bit grittier” sort of thing applies. the multiples in the FS/original are better and you can send a note CV in to all oscillators at once via a single cable/jack (which I don’t think you can on the 2600m). it’s nice patching the 2600m because it’s smaller and you need shorter cables. the slider throw is less in the 2600m but I don’t think it’s inhibiting in any way.
basically I think both are great. if you can find the FS for $4k-ish and you can afford that, you’ll probably really enjoy it. but I don’t think you’re missing anything sonically if you get the 2600m. the physicality of the experience will be different. you won’t have the sequencer/arpeggiator and extra LFO from the keyboard. but you can replace those with something else with the money you’ve saved…
Ah good point about the delivery date! The Luigis look good. Thanks!
The looped gray cable to the left came with the 2600m
The short braided white cable came with the Minibrute 2S - I’d like more like this
In the group on the right:
Gold and red are the “braided” Luiji
Gray is the standard Luiji
White is a TT Stackable
I can recommend the Polar Noise cables, especially the braided ones. The braided are a bit thicker though, so it can be a problem if you use a cable hanger. The basic ones are great as well.
What cables does the ARP 2600M accept 3.5 or 6.3?
