DIY: do it yourself!

The topic about external FX on Machinedrum had me reuse my good old guitar FX stompboxes, among them an analog distorsion and delay I soldered myself.
Techniguitare kits are relatively easy to assemble (most of them are fuzz/distorsion pedals), were conceived and optimized by guys that really know what they are doing, and I cannot recommend them enough !
For the price (around 50€) you can get FX that are even better than the official ones !

Soldering such FX kits gave me enough confidence to try assembling a Shruthi-1 and a PreenFM2 : it was painless, easy, and now makes me so proud of myself (even if this was just stupid assembling) :smiley:
I underline that both synths have absolutely no trouble, run perfectly and sounds pretty great !

I’d like you guys to tell me what DIY synth / modules / FX you built yourself and are really happy of.
:tongue:

What’s your dope ?

9 Likes

Ok so that now you’ve piqued my curiosity, how would you recommend one begin looking into learning how to solder it?

1 Like

Soldering is really not that complicated…
We’re not talking surface-mount components : at first you would mainly solder “through-hole” resistors and capacitors.

So you would basically need :

  • a powerful enough soldering iron (I bought mine 18€ iirc)
  • a multimeter (I bought a very cheap one and a decade after I have only changed the battery once)
  • some solder wire (in France it’s forbidden to sell some with lead now, but it’s much easier to use… See if you can get some, and avoid breathing the fumes)
  • a wide plywood slab, to avoid brning the table and being able to move everything at once
  • a desktop light
  • a magnifying glass is good for very tiny component, I found
  • a “third-hand" stand can be interesting, as I often feel like I need a third hand when I’m soldering…

Obviously, you might first try to solder something like a fuzz or distorsion pedal, they are the simplest. Or maybe even a delay : those are easy-to-find-and-solder kits and they must be around 50€ max.
Practicing is the key, but really soldering is easy.
First action is identifying one by one the groups components by value
After that, you’re ready :

  • you put the component in through the hole,
  • you bring the soldering ireon for like 2 seconds against the component leg so that both the leg and the PCB round are hot enough,
  • then you bring the wire next to the leg.
  • As soon as it melts and go on the PCB round, you remove the iron, avoid breathing on this, and voilà : a second later the component is solidly adhering to the PCB.

There are tons of soldering tutorials on internet, watch several of them and you’ll get it. If you’re really clumsy you might cripple one kit, but if you persevere it should be OK…

1 Like

Is it easy to redo mistakes?

Depends… Some things can be tricky, e.g. a big foot switch with 8 legs : you HAVE to be 100% sure you’re not doing a mistake because otherwise it’s a PITA to unsolder it…
I have also crippled some kits by putting to much soldering material, or letting the iron a bit too long on a capacitor and getting it burned.
But that was my first kit. I have done 4 since then and not one mistake on the two last ones.
I must say that both PreenFM2 and Shruthi-1 are extremely well documented, which helps a lot.

I try to do this when I’m not too tired (e.g. not on Friday night) and I take the time to double check every step. You have to be patient. But it’s so cool once done, a pretty little synth in its metal case ^^

1 Like

Yeah well that Preen looks hot and I think I’d like it doubly if I assembled it myself.

Thanks for the tips.

2 Likes

I’m currently waiting for some parts from mouser to start on the Nava. I’ve already built a Yocto: http://www.e-licktronic.com/en/content/20-projects-arduino-midi-controller-sequencer-diy
For effects I’ve always wanted to build the Plankton Jellyfish but never was in the right mood to jump when kits were available. And now only euro rack it seems: http://www.planktonelectronics.com/the-jellyfish/
I did the shruthi yellow magic then put that in an xl. Helped a friend build the standard shruthi after that. Love it for basslines!
9090 http://www.9090project.co.uk/
with MFOS soundlab (older one) jammed into a guitar amp box. http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/index.php?MAINTAB=SYNTHDIY&VPW=1910&VPH=985
Two ssl bus compressors. I don’t use them!: http://www.gyraf.dk/gy_pd/ssl/ssl.htm
An LXR with the trigger outs and Erica synth enclosure. Willing to part: http://www.sonic-potions.com/lxr
WTPA1, now 2: http://blog.narrat1ve.com/wtpa2/
Paia fatman

Soldering is easy to learn. Don’t get the cheapest tools! Go a step up. Buy some components and a little board to practice on. It’s all about getting a rhythm down melting the solder. Bigger parts will take longer. Desoldering is harder. Use sockets on your ICs. You want a bright light and a magnifying glass. If you tend to have shaky hands you will have a bad time doing this.

For effects though, you’d kind of want something decently digital (DP4) too so you don’t really need to build something like that.

You will love whatever you build. Do it at least once.

2 Likes

I’ve assembled some MIDI-IF boards. It’s a PCB to solder onto the Korg Monotron to make it recieve midi data. Insane cool.

I’ve assembled an ARPIE, that’s a very usefull midi arpeggiator hardware.

I’ve assembled some diy effect pedal kits also, compressors, analog bit crushers, overdrive, noise gates and other small usefull effects.

I put together a Livid Instruments Brain Jr. with 16 analog pots and 8 digital rotary encoders.

I’ve done alot of repair jobs and modifications on my old Amiga and Commodore 64 computers.

I’ve circuit bent some of my son’s electronic toys. He can now pitch shift them. There’s mostly a resistor inside setting the pitch, just replace it with a potentiometer and voila, you’ve got crazy pitch/tempo knob.

I have repaired a bunch of effect pedals for members of my band.

I have no education in electronics, only internet. I have learned alot there. But I want to go back to school and really learn electronics, because I love this shit too much.

3 Likes

I’m starting a few little things soon.

Need to soldier a new battery socket onto virus classic module , I’m most nervous about this
Solder on/off switch on my lxr metal case

Main thing is to make an axoloti controller I got from thonk
And try to solder power cable onto pocket operator

I’m mostly nervous about soldering a component in the wrong way.

made a case for my OT as a practice run for making a case for the AK

i wanted something fairly overprotective … and i didnt want to spend hundreds of dollars




3 Likes

Not a post about my own DIY endeavours, i’ve hacked and built odd things over the years - probably the most satisfying was a CV out Breath Controller I made, satisfying because i designed the (admittedly basic) circuit and it worked well (though it is challenging to sustain the high pressure - good for short bursts of aftertouch style expression input)
anyway
just wanted to link to this site i just stumbled on searching for something else diy related
.
this is DIY gear pr0n of the highest order - really exceptional end products and a boutique feel to gas about … it’s a long page, the stuff nearer the middle is out of this world - just linking for the eye candy, if i needed some bespoke gear and had the money i’d be a little tempted

1 Like

…indeeeed!..:grin: lots of really interesting projects, thanks for sharing this avantronica :relaxed:

1 Like

@LyingDalai

Here are some specs of parts I used for my Elektron compatible Boombox. It should be really simple, at least if you don’t want to sum stereo signals to mono. If you want to do summing, then you need to solder some resistors with plugs. I have four channels in Behringer mixer: two 3,5mm stereo plugs, one 6,3mm stereo plug and two 6,3mm mono plugs for maximum flexibility :slight_smile:

Everything is powered with 12v setting and from DROK circuit you can select what voltage you want to output. There are naturally two power plugs outside: one for charging the battery and another to provide power for your devices. There is also a usb plug for power. I have also converted a bluetooth audio receiver to accept usb power to provide audio without cables (then you cannot have Behringer mixer at the same time)

There is one bug, every now and then the whole thing doesn’t power up, then I have to remove the cable from the battery and plug it back in. I guess this is some sort of “feature” of this particular battery. The amplifier is really cheap and quite noisy - so this isn’t definitely any hi-fi system! But it provides an ok sound and at least the sound levels are decent, you cannot turn it up to 11 or you’d need earplugs, even on outside. Sound is a bit bass heavy, which suits me.

Please ask if you need some more details!

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1zPLu4op_AvpG9GuUek5N-KNk-ohrvmtxWYBeV3Jstr0/pubhtml

Hmm. Why the pics appear 90 degrees rotated…? :blush:

About the pictures : you should download the file and use the “upload” button, I guess.
Oh, and the file is way too big ! I took the liberty to re-upload it :slight_smile:

And thank you very much for the info, I’ll dig into it !!!

Spinal Tap 11 ? Really ?!?!!
:smile:

EDIT : I can’t see the pictures in your Google file, for some reason…

I don’t even know why… I know nothing about soldering… but I want to start building little modules after watching a demo of the new Dannysound EN129 (which by the way blew my mind - FM is crazy good)

Any tips on what else I need to buy and how to get started? I’m a little unsure of how I am meant to test modules, PCBs etc… and dont want to power them from my main case.

Also, this BOM stuff confuses me - if i purchase a full DYI kit, I just use the BOM links for build guide, I dont need to buy more parts from there right?

Damn… whats wrong with me.

2 Likes

You don’t need to buy extra stuff for a full kit. Just make sure you use enough heat on your iron, solder with 0.7mm solder or thereabout, use a thin tip. Take your time and follow the instructions. You’ll get the hang of it fast. Boms are for when you want to order the components yourself, usually gets a lot cheaper.

What are you building? :slight_smile:

2 Likes

Cheers, do I need to consider types of solder blah blah? is there a board that it can sit on so i can test modules/power so I dont need to connect to my main case?

I’m starting with this:
https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/radio-music-full-diy-kit/

Think it would be a lot of fun to sample sounds into the Magneto or Morphagene!

I’m by no means an expert, but was a beginner a couple of years ago and have soldered about 20-25 modules since then. Some people swear to lead free solder, but as a beginner I’d advice you to just get regular solder with lead and flux “built in” to the solder. Not that I’ve ever tried lead free solder, but I think that’s the general recommendation.

I think you could test your module on a breadboard, but even simpler is just to get a multimeter and learn how to use it. I basically use mine 90% of the time to check that there’s no shorting on the power supply, and as long as there isn’t, plugging a module into power won’t damage it either way (as far as I’ve gathered).

I’ve built three radio music’s myself. The instructions for it are great, so a wise first build! Just follow the instructions and take breaks when you get tired, and you’ll be fine. :slight_smile:

2 Likes

lead free solder is better for your health, BUT harder to solder, and usually more epxensive.

I personally don´t think soldering 1-2 modules a month exposes you enough to the fumes to make the “lead free” solder worth the extra trouble you WILL have (it takes more heat to melt, which might make you damage PCBs or parts if you´re not careful).

Radio Music is a great starter kit, I can also recommend the good old Turing Machine… Oh and can I recommend something to along those 2: GINKO SYNTHESE SAMPLESLICER (mk2).

very easy build, basically only jacks+pots to solder.

RE: the BOM thing:
no, you´ll only need the BOM for reference to see, for example, what value Resistor “R19” has and/or where it goes on the board (but you can see the PCB markings anyways).

Highly recommend buying full kits until you´re seasoned enough to just buy PCB+Panels and source your own parts… this CAN save you a few bucks but will typically cost you 1-2hours of your time just to find all the necessary parts online.

Again, I personally don´t think that is worth the time or trouble unless you plan on building several modules at once and can order some parts in bulk to save on cost.
(or if your budget is really tight of course)