Digitakt : External battery / Power pack options?

Dunno, only have a Digitakt.

Until tomorrow when the Octatrack arrives :slight_smile: Iā€™ll tell you in 24 hours. Remind me if I forget.

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Awesome thanks!

Oh, after a couple of cycles Iā€™m getting about 6 hours on the Digi. The battery likes a few 12-14 hour charges.

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The answer is yes. Itā€™s running the DT and OT. Iā€™ll see how long it runs for.

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What about using one of the KOMA Elektronik Strom Mobile Power boxes. Use two power banks, one for each channel, set both channels to 12v, and use a guitar pedal current doubler cable, plugging one end in each channel. According to the manual, at 12v, each channel should give about 0.85A out, with 2.4A in, so using a current doubler cable should give plenty of current, even at 2.1A in on each channel.

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Long thread! TLDR!

How many hours are people getting out of these battery packs for charging the Digitakt?

Bought an XT16000QC3 finally, it is really endless as i have used for an average timing of 3 hours per sessions and it just comsumed around 15 % of battery. I realized my dream of playing everywhere with my machines!

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Which tip did you use? Iā€™m nervous about mixing polarities, so afraid to start just trying them.

This particular model has no polarity pins, it comes with a good selection of rounded dc adaptors, thereā€™s no chance to invert polarity.

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@arinev
Hi. Iā€™m researching. Iā€™m sure you did too. Is this (XT 20000QC3 is the available one online) a good choice in your eyes? Its pricey but maybe that means itā€™s better?

Best wishes

Jack

And does it ever auto-power off? The blurb on amazon says it will auto-off if the current draw is too low, not sure if the DT current draw falls below the XT20000qc3 threshold. Or if that matters tbh?

Ignore the power draw qn. Iā€™ve worked it out.

12V at 1A is 12 W. Minimum power draw is 10 watts. So all good. Bought :wink:

Yes thatā€™s a good option, I am working perfectly with it, I have no stress about battery consuming as it could last for more than 10 hours(rough calculation) if 100% charged.

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I agree. Also, it will power both my digitakt and my M:C. Bonus!

Itā€™s pretty easy to make yourself though, if you use 3D printing. I did an internal one, but external is just as possible. Would cost you maybe 50-60$ max, and itā€™s only 30 or so in parts.

What adapter Cable are you using to convert USB 5V to 12V ?

The Ripcord cable.

Just an FYI.

Rather than a 5v to 12v cable I bought an XTPower bank which does not need a special cable and will power both an M:C/S via USB out, and a DT via barrel 12v DC out.

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Have you been able to find a compact and inexpensive one of these?

I ended up going the Ripcord route because all of the 12V ones I could find were large, and also pretty expensive for their capacity. There are so many USB ones around that it seems like there are often great deals on large-capacity ones. But maybe I wasnā€™t looking in the right places! Iā€™d be curious to see what you are using.

[I deleted my previous post because I accidentally posted to the general thread, but I meant to make it a reply to jackioā€™s specific commentā€¦]

Iā€™m reporting back after trying out the MyVolts 12V power adapter for a few months - it seems to have failed, or perhaps my battery isnā€™t kicking out enough current anymore. In any case, the Digitakt will no longer power up via the MyVolts cable if using a battery. It will work just fine with the cable if itā€™s powered via a wall socket.

That being said, Iā€™m wondering what makes MyVolts so brazen about advertising it as a proper cable for the Digitakt. Specs for the cable:

Model AA928MS
Input: 5V, max 2.4A
Output: 12V, max 0.75A
Output Power: 9W max

Thereā€™s even a comment in the Q&A section on Amazon from MyVolts:

"Please bear the following in mind when using USB C to poer Ripcord. Should you wish to use Ripcord with a non-standard compliant USB port which outputs more than 2.4 Amps (some high-end powerbanks on the market can output 3-4 Amps), please ensure that the average power requirement in normal operation is under 9W. Note that Ripcord has been engineered to operate in the 0-9W range, extended periods above 9W may damage Ripcordā€™s circuitry and will void your warranty.ā€

Letā€™s take the 2.4A output as the main example. The Digitakt is known to draw as much as 900mA in practice (10.8W) and 1A on paper (12W) when starting up, before dropping down to a rough range of ~600mA max. This may explain why itā€™s not working to power up the Digitakt initially during the spike period, but why itā€™s OK coming from the wall socket, although I canā€™t explain why it changed its behavior unless my battery has degraded just enough.

Still, I want to ask: how can MyVolts sell something thatā€™s ā€œdesigned for the Digitaktā€ when it will definitely operate above the 9W limit stated, even if only briefly? Seems a bit disingenuous, but maybe itā€™s fine because theyā€™re talking about average power.

I do recall using this cable with a different battery pack initially, and I noticed that after using it a few times, the battery itself had expanded and showed a bulge in the case. That indicates that the battery was failing, perhaps because of too much power draw - although I didnā€™t put 2 and 2 together at the time. Iā€™m not totally confident in placing the blame squarely on the cable, but I felt it was important to share my findings here for others to decide for themselves.

Good luck, and thanks due to folks like @TheNorthsAce for their real-world research.

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