Hey, that sounds super annoying. First thing I’d probably try, given the conditions you’ve described, is use the test mode as a vehicle for confirming whether or not there is actually some physical contact or other prolonged contact with the switch on that 6th trig which you mentioned as an issue. I think that if it’s double triggering or the light remains as a result of a physical type of issue, then the keys test which displays visual feedback for buttons and encoders (text on the screen will state the corresponding button or encoder which you’re pressing/turning) should show something to corroborate that.
From an off state, hold down the func key and turn on the machine using the power switch. Test mode should come up immediately, then release the func key and run the self-diagnostic. If it’s a hardware related issue, test mode should still say zero errors, in the unlikely event that it shows any errors then it’s possible something software related is going on, but it does not sound that way from your description, but as it’s a unique issue I wouldn’t want to dismiss that as a possibility.
After the self-test, you can start pressing buttons - the standard behavior for the first 2 trigs is usually going to be screen all lit and the other is screen completely dim, this is a pixel test for the OLED. The following 3 trigs usually individually light all LED button lights in RGB colors which allows individual filaments (or whatever the colors are based upon) to be tested in the event only one color has burnt out on a button, there is also a readout on the display that states the name of the button you’ve pushed and it will only be displayed for the duration of the button pressing - once released, the screen should go blank.
What I’m suggesting, is to engage trig 6 if that’s the one with the problem and then watch the display to see if the behavior is the same as the other keys, where as soon as you release the button the text disappears, or if the text lingers which would probably be indicative of a physical connection which still remains present in the tactile switch under the button cap.
Start with that, check the result, and based on that there might be one of a few possible resolutions up to and including having Elektron do a repair. If this was purchased recently through Sweetwater or something like that, they may or may not help you directly but assuming it’s outside of whatever the retailer’s DOA exchange policy indicates, then if it does require repair, Elektron should be the ones to handle it and there won’t be any cost aside from possibly shipping but cross that bridge when you come to it.
If it does seem like a physical delay and you possibly feel like that trig is rubbing on the faceplate when it comes back up, use your phone light or something which is bright enough to get a good look around the trig itself and see if one side of the button or the corner of it is maybe getting hung up on the cutout, if it is that might be something you can resolve on your own however you don’t have to because Elektron does owe it to you to take care of it and if you want to document a repair history then I’d just let them handle it as long as you have the time to wait, otherwise something like that can usually be resolved by realigning the upper PCB but is done at your own risk by opening the machine.
Again, cross that bridge when you come to it. If you tell me what happens in test mode, I’ll do my best to help you hammer out a next step. Hopefully it’s nothing major but it does sound like a pain in the ass so better to take care of it now than later. Good luck.
