http://www.winstar.com.tw/products_detail_ov.php?lang=ru&ProID=48
Thx, but looks like I need a translator ^^
Thx, just found the language options. Need new glasses 
Bumping this old thread to ask anyone who has done a LCD swap on the Octatrack is it a 5v screen or 3.3v?
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Since nobody seems keen on sharing info… I measured 3.3V between VSS and VDD.
CS1 also measured 3.3V while CS2 seemed to be floating. Not sure why nobody is willing to share what they’ve found.
While I haven’t removed the display yet to check the exact version it seems like the current LCD in the Octatrack MKI is a winstar WG12864A or WG12864AB(3.3V option).
Not much available in OLED’s with the exact pin layout or mounting size. The closest I could find doesn’t match the pin layout or mounting holes. CS1 and reset would need to be swapped but it’s still the same 8bit parallel interface as well as voltage so it would work with some custom mounting and cables (instead of soldering directly to the pin header). It’s just swapping 2 pins and making a mount for it.
Here’s the closest active OLED I could find:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/NHD-2.7-12864WDW3/NHD-2.7-12864WDW3-ND
Slightly smaller but should fill the opening for the LCD. I’ll probably try it and make a new thread.
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Actually, while this is necro-ed, does anybody know the part number for the OLED in the Octatrack MKII?
Okay so the LCD just arrived, it looks like the bezel should be completely covered by the window (since the OLED display is slightly smaller). Now I just have to make a crossover adapter cable to swap 2 pins and design a 3D printed mount to hold it in the correct position.
If all works I’ll make an adapter PCB to mount it on.
I’ll post results here or on a new thread
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great work, appreciate the info and yeah, please keep us updated on your progress!
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I’ll make sure to update you guys on this for sure. I tried to go with something that was an “active part” so it would be readily available. If it works and I make PCB’s, I’ll either make extra and sell them (for a fair price) and/or make the PCB files available to everyone.
I have some other mod ideas that I’ll spill if they come to fruition.
Hopefully I’ll find some time tonight to do some work on the OLED tests.
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I made some progress tonight. Mostly just removed the original LCD and cleaned up the holes.
It looks like my educated guess on the LCD was correct fortunately 
I also stripped and crimped one side of the 20 jumper.
I’m at a good stopping point for the evening, more details coming tomorrow.
Oh! Gotta hide the screws and knobs or my cat will steal them!
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Also, encoder A is acting up so I’ll swap that while it’s open. I think this was still under warranty but I usually just fix stuff (or break it, not as often) myself anyway.
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I really apreciate the effort you put into this. Ol’OT getting some attention. mine would love a shone oled, too.
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Nice work @Airyck I no longer have my mkI but I appreciate the effort you are putting in documenting your mod. Best of luck, although you look like you got this 
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I looked around and there are various mods (like the inverted LCD above) but nobody shares their information (or they had it done). Mine still has some life in it so I want to give it a better life 
More today hopefully. I should at least be able to try and turn on the OLED. Just have to finish the other side of the cable and solder on some headers.
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I appreciate you sharing your hardware hacking efforts with us. Mad respect.
I’d wish you luck but it looks like you got this. 
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Okay so here is the basic pin conversion from comparing datasheets.
The last 2 pins on the OLED are MPU Interface Pin Selections and it should be 6800 parallel 8-bit interface which shows BS1 and BS0 as “1” or logic level high aka 3.3V in this case. I think they should just be able to be tied high but I’ll let people know for sure when I figure it out for sure.
Pin 16 on the OLED goes to pin 17 (Reset) on the Octatrack.
Pin 17 on the OLED goes to pin 15 (CS1) on the Octatrack.
Pin 3 doesn’t matter as it’s a contrast control which is N.C. or not connected on the OLED
The last 3 pins on the original LCD are VEE negative output (pin 17) and backlight power supply +/- on pins 19 and 20 respectively.
I didn’t measure those so I’m going to leave them disconnected for now.
The connections in the diagram are “safe”, I’ll figure out the MPU select thing as I start to put it together.
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