~7year old ATH-M50 broke some weeks ago. Designed and 3D printed replacement parts.
most intricate thing I’ve designed/printed, lots of fine details in the cam/detent features of the hinge, and in the wire routing through the pivots.
10 Likes
Great work! I’ve been printing everything in PETG lately. More durable than ABS and almost as easy to print as PLA. Awesome stuff if you aren’t using it.
Agreed, that new design is great looking. Hard to justify since I have a working regular V4. Plus I’m just out of room and have to swap things in and out as is.
I bought the very first part of the kit and was so impatient for the rest to follow I built a v4 whilst waiting
Haha now I can’t justify building the +
2 Likes
I’m using plain nylon for the white hinge post pieces, and a chopped-carbon-fiber nylon blend for the black part—strength/durability not much of a concern…
1 Like
any chance to get the 3D file for the midirex box? Would love to get mine enclosed.
1 Like
Definitely. I need to make 2 small adjustments though. The screw together part has a little gap and it causes the case to crack when you tighten it.
I’ll get you a version, fixed or not in the next day or so.
It uses 4 x 22mm long 3M screws and 4 x 3M nylocks (it’s just what I had on hand so I designed it for the hardware I had).
Please bug me if I don’t hit you up shortly.
1 Like
Absolutely and thanks!
any chance of getting those midirex case files 
?
1 Like
See? Told you you might need to remind me…
I’ll get on it.
MIDIRex_3D_Print_Case.zip (203.5 KB)
Print the top cover face down with “No Supports”. Use bridging to make the text “float” instead.
This picture below is the only place to use supports and on the build plate only.
The feet I use are 13mm “cutting board feet”
You can melt 4mm “heat insets” into the holes and use 4M x 6mm long screws to screw in the feet.
Or you can just find sticky feet to put in there that are 13mm-ish diameter.
Put the 3mm nuts in the “nut traps” on the picture below. Use 22mm long (could probably be a little less) screws screws in from the top down to the nut traps through the PCB.
The flat spot on the nut trap stand off is to allow “bridging” instead of needing support material in there.
The PCB is a tight fit, so be careful not to break off your power switch when you’re putting it in. Just bend the case outward while you put the PCB in.
3 Likes
Homebrew Micromonsta stand.
There’s a large rubber ball under the cover that I can move around to adjust the incline. It’s much more enjoyable to work with this way.
The texture of the Dog Man book cover is perfect against the feet of the MM. Doesn’t slide at all.
23 Likes
A couple of rack cases. Nothing special. Easiest things to make. The one with the mixer has a slanted section and a straight section for ergonomics.
7 Likes
Three recent builds. A two ring modulators in one box thing. A matrix mixer. And a modular utility box for my mb2s with a couple of joysticks (among other things) salvaged from a smashed stereo receiver that was laying in the road.
11 Likes
Little noise maker in a bandaid box.
Casio mt40. Halfway between circuit bent and properly modded. Sleng Teng riddim machine for those familiar with the digital dub scene.
The brain for my recently built electronic drum kit. Alligator clip friendly interface for mangling audio. I’ll take a pic of the kit next time I’m where it is.
15 Likes
A DIY stand (Aluminium + wood) for my setup.
I’m now able to move it around the house, with only a power cable to plug/unplug !
16 Likes
Headphone hanger. Just a couple of old trophies from a garage sale screwed into a board.
Three guitar stand made of some alder left over from a furniture build at work. This was meant to be a prototype but I’m lazy sometimes and it’s good enough.
A couple of pedals I threw together. The yellow one is based on about two thirds of a vintage rat circuit board I found in a dumpster long ago. Rebuilt it and added a feedback circuit. The other is a feedback loop pedal I built inspired by the dba tsa but expanded on.
Rack mount reverb made from a broken lamp, small speaker transducer, a cheap headphone amp, and some contact mics.
9 Likes
I made a passive switch that routes two samplers ins to the others outs and vice versa for quick bouncing back and forth. Works great and elevates swapping cables and the dreaded jam killing wake the family feedback. My drilling was off for couple RCAs but only had one 1590A at the time so I let my OCD make an exception.
3 Likes
this would be a great idea for my BlackBox. Thanx