no! you can put the pads between the stands and the monitor. the stands already do some decoupling but you get much better results if you use pads. some stands have spikes to help with this…
Aha super!always thought those are for desk placement thank you
A few points to add to the top advice you are already getting here,
-
The wooden walls are a plus not a minus. With concrete walls you would have longer reverberation and the frequency response of the room would be less flat.
-
The furniture does not cause more reverberation, and actually acts as a diffusor. In an empty room with parallel walls, there is a lot of ping-ponging going on, so the reflections that arrive at your ear are exact multiples of each other, which generally doesn’t sound pleasant. A sofa against the back wall diffuses this somewhat. It is certainly worth making all the measurements when the room is empty, but then bringing the furniture back in after the room has been treated will not add reverberation. (huge fish-tanks and titanium file cabinets notwithstanding)
-
This article has been extremely helpful to me over the years time and time again, in general pointers and in particular the formula for the “panel absorber”:
This is especially helpful when after absorbers and bass traps there is still a narrow-band bump in the low end. Also ridiculously cheap to make relative to specialty acoustic materials.
3 Likes
First time I see this literally.Embarrassed 
are you experienced with resonant traps? this is something I wanted to tackle when I’ve done everything else…
acoustic treatment is a deep topic and can be overwhelming in the beginning so I wanted to start easy 
“resonant traps” sounds deep, but really it’s just a wooden box with particular dimensions, open on one side.
I did this once for a friend who had a nasty 60Hz boost right where he was sitting. We ended up needing 2 of them, but room went from unbearable to totally usable for under $100 (labor and materials, way less if you build it yourself).
ok cool! there is always this one nasty frequency and it’s multiples that are difficult to remove completely with broadband absorbers
You just need a membrane trap like i posted above, the limp mass hanging freely in the frame deals with the lowest frequencies no need to build a tuned trap…
The tuned trap is the last thing you do after all the basic stuff has been done. It can be predicted by the room dimensions but one would need to dig into the science. A wide band bass trap will reduce low end reflections from somewhere between 100-200 Hz down, which is certainly where you want to start. But if your particular room creates an 8 dB boost around a certain frequency you will need a tuned trap (or two) in addition.