My buddy used to swap out the batteries on his 404 just prior to his set at the club so he knew it would have enough power for his gig. No drama about forgetting to charge.
Also, internal batteries eventually fail, and if not easily swappable reduces the use life of the unit. I had a Yamaha SU-10 sampler from the 90s that could still be used in the late 2010s precisely because it was AA powered.
I asked someone and this is currently not possible. Bummer.
that is a massive bummer, hopefully fw updates may remedy.
Maybe they could’ve implemented bpm± to be accessible if you shift+pitch±
then bpm pads could’ve been sample/resample pads to drop sounds/live loops on top… this is a performance oversight imo.
I have the feeling they knew they wanted DJ mode. And knew that because they’d need to press the buttons and silkscreen the controls for it, they’d have to have it for launch. So they got the most basic DJ features together that would justify the labeling and went with it.
Which is no slight on what’s there. It’s pretty cool. It just feels like it’s laying groundwork instead of being really integrated and taking advantage of everything else the box can do.
It definitely seems the most barebones thing on the unit, and it doesn’t currently do much that I’m interested in.
Someone pointed out that it would be cool if they added loop markers in a future update, and something like that could make it much more useable for me, in terms of live remixing tracks made on the unit. I would also want to be able to play one shots on top as well.
The DJ function is apparently the baby of the lead designer in Japan, so maybe it will see more love in the future as you said.
Yep. I’ve got an old SU10 that I’ve been meaning to get rid of. It still runs on double As. When my Circuit Rhythm is that old I put the chances of it holding a charge at exactly 0
Thanks, that’s exactly what I was looking for!
I for one am buzzed about the AA batteries. Got a feeling it’s gonna be one of the last of its kind. Who uses AA anymore? Can buy a pack anywhere. Love that
Juno burned me bad on a vermona drm1 I had to create a case with PayPal to get it resolved and they still managed to screw me out of the return shipping, which was expensive for me as I’m not in the uk. Absolute scammers. Never again.
Where do 404 peeps get their skins? Is styleflip how it’s done?
If I was shopping I’d look at the cremmacafe things, no adhesive. Pretty sure I saw a mk2 page on there the other day.
Just found it for you
Ah, I’m not sure about availability elsewhere, but in Japan you can still get them from the convenience stores, which are everywhere.
So you can literally rock up to the gig, go next door and buy a fresh pack, and pop them in. That might go away for environmental reasons, but there will still be plenty of rechargeable options.
That was in support lol I said CAN buy a pack anywhere. I was saying it’s kinda cool they’re doing it and it’s a bit of a rare sight to see on something like pro music gear. Very happy with AA
Haha. I read too quickly.
The last Roland “manual” video shows that a standard, slim battery power brick (Anker, etc.) w/ USBC out will work just fine. That’s gratifying.
Sounds nice on bass as well! This will be great for quiet headphone practice, with the added bonus of having skip back to capture anything that happens to sound nice.
@unflattered I’m going to grab a new power brick I think! I need to check the video manual. I skipped around so missed that bit.
Does anyone know if it’s standard 9V like a guitar pedal? Could I power it off my Strymon Ojai power supply, if I’m running guitar pedals?
Edit: doesn’t look like the Strymon would be good. Better to stick to USB power or batteries.
One question about USB C cables. So Apple’s Thunderbolt USB C is different from regular USB C, right? What kind of a cable would I need to plug into an Apple Thunderbolt port on my computer?
USB-C is a format. Thunderbolt 3 adopted the USB-C format, so it will work in any USB-C port.
*I will clarify the difference has to do with the data transfer rate. If you have two Thunderbolt 3 equipped ports and you want to connect them with Thunderbolt 3 speeds, then you need a Thunderbolt 3 equipped cable.
Any USB-C port, with Thunderbolt 3 or not, can be connected to any other USB-C port, with Thunderbolt 3 or not, using either a Thunderbolt 3 or regular USB-C cable. You just need all three on Thunderbolt 3 to get the specific transfer rate. This doesn’t matter with music equipment outside of some specific interfaces like Apollos because they are designed that way (seems like bs marketing to me though). The speeds are all too high to matter, you would only see differences when doing things like transferring massive amounts of files or live film/VR. Thunderbolt 3 can move 5GB a second I think.
From what I can see from the manual it is 9V 1.1A, so if you can get enough current from the Strymon, it should work perfectly.
You probably will want to check the AC adaptor when you get it though to make sure that it is 9V and make sure that the polarity is the same, otherwise you’ll need an adaptor to swap the positve/negative pins.
