Red eye

:slight_smile: cheers mate.
i have a few restoration projects going on atm. unfortunately, i have to work within limited space therefore organisational skills are essential to keep track of what goes where.

1 Like

Do you know which Winstar model it is?
And is it OLED or LCD?
I would love to do this mod one day. Looks fantastic!

The one I used is LCD. I looked for an OLED but could not find even one, which would suit the purpose (dims, interface type etc). Also I have noticed that in some designs OLEDs cause a high frequency noise in audio path (eg. QM 309).
I ordered this one:
ebay link
which turned out to be Winstar. Stupidly I did not take a photo before soldering it in.

2 Likes

Part: Winstar WG12864A-TTI-VN+
Available here:
https://www.gme.sk/lcd-display-graficky-128x64-wg12864a-tti-vn

4 Likes

Ahh, so it Is the KS0108.
And this one is a bit slow? Iā€™m not fussy either about the speed, just wondering.
Thanks for replying. :slight_smile:

Well, it is not slower than the original. However it provides better visual experience. So thereā€™s nothing to worry about.

1 Like

HereĀ“s mine:

ā€¦itĀ“s this one: https://www.ebay.de/itm//291836099801
ā€¦the old one desoldered pin by pin.

3 Likes

So sick. This is the KS0108?

You do it or did you have it done?

IĀ“m just too old for such tiny things. It was done by a professional (me just assisting). He heated both sides and I pulled the pins. :wrench:

1 Like

I got away with a wide blade tip (approx. 5 mm wide) and big blob (joining 5-7 pins) of solder. It allowed me to melt up to 5 pins at the same time.

These can be bought directly at buydisplay.com by the way.

I have bought many 16x2 lcds from them and the service is stellar. Good documentation and flexible design. Most importantly they keep high level of compatibility in terms of controllers. Their lcds were the only ones which handled 4bit data line of Alesis Micron display.

In my view their black on white lcds are better than negative ones in terms of readibility and contrast.

1 Like

I have screens for my md and mnm. But when i get a jobā€¦ :frowning: ā€¦ill pay a pro to do it for me.

I wanna do a white on black screen on my a4 too.
Anyone know what screen would be needed for the a4?

ā€œMyā€ Pro was such a nice guy. He did the job for 20 Euros.
A suitable 122x32 Dot Matrix screen can be found here (the same guy who sells the VFD):

4 Likes

20 euro! Holy crap. The place i found here that would do it said it would be 150 usd per box :frowning:

If you saw what i did to my MDā€¦youd understand why i dont ever wanna do that again.

The screen is a little more difficult than just through hole.
The stack was hard to get off. I was able to do tje simple through hole no sweat. But i messed shit up bad trying pull the screen. Embarrassingly bad.

Can anyone recommend a tech in Melbourne Australia that could replace a screen. I got the replacement part already from elektron. Thanks

Hi,

What display is that on the last picture? I want one NOW!!!

Winstar WG12864A-TTI-VN+. Winstar is the same as aforementioned in this thread, Adafruit module.

1 Like

Hi,
after seeing this thread Iā€™ve ordered a black/white display for my MD as well.
I was trying to desolder the old LCD today but I did not get very far.
My MD is one of the latest models (mk2 uw+) with the red PCB, and what I suppose is lead free solder.
I have quite some lead based soldering experience and have changed the displays on my esi4000, D550 and alpha juno 2 with no issues at all.
But this one - wtf - I have no clue how to get this kind of solder off. I have to turn my 60W soldering station up to 420Ā°C for it to even start to melt and it solidifies the millisecond i remove the tip.

Has anyone successfully changed the lcd on the late model MDs and can give me some tips on how to get this done safely?
Thank you

Maybe just give it some more time. I wouldnā€™t go over 290C or so to not burn any traces. Be quick with the solder sucker and use it once the solder melts.

1 Like