Pulled out a knob on my MAM MB33

Wanting to check the knobs on my MB33 to decide if I would replace them with Chroma Caps, I pulled one, it came out easily and…

I discovered only the bcap comes out, seems the knobs are screwed to the chassis. And now it looks like I can’t just put the cap back in place, there’s no notch. Seems it was glues or I broke something.

It came really easily out.

Anybody knows better?

Maybe take a photo for us please.

1 Like

Obviously glued, like an outersheath/ shell. The outer diameter of the inner shaft is bigger than hole, so presumably that inner part will lift off to reveal a splined or D shape shaft. Don’t reglue it until the pot is set to min or Max and you can align dot as before

4 Likes

Thanks. The crazy thing is that I didn’t pull strong at all, just came out.

Do you mean, on the part that remains on the synth? You believe that comes out to reveal a regular knob? (my goal was to see if I can swap the knobs, they aren’t that great)

Indeed, the hole in chassis plate is seemingly eclipsed by inner part of knob, so looks like a two part knob

1 Like

The part still attached to the chassis doesn’t seem to come out. I don’t want to use more force and damage it further.

I guess I’ll glue the cap back (at either full position thanks for the reminder) and forget about it, unless someone less rookie than me knows about these knobs :slight_smile:

1 Like

Hi there, first post, wanted to share something helpful for my first post!

I have seen a similar behaviour on old PA equipment.
A good tip in general for this is, to wrap a string around the base of the knob and pull on the string.
You are less likely to damage something when you concentrate your force like this.

It is likely that the glue is dissolved due to heat etc, but the "real"cap shrunk overtime and sits very tight now.

cheers

3 Likes

Thanks! That’s helpful.

I’m still unsure whether the knobs would come out though. I’ll wait to see if someone knows this synth specifically.

Seems to be D shaft - glue cap back on with epoxy after a light sand, let it cure and try again. Best time to try carefully with pliers is now though as it’s a hidden surface

2 Likes

…it’s a damned sturdy machine…made in germany…bavaria, even, in this case…

and i can confirm…those potis are indeed extra fixed to the mainboard with screws…

like all gear should be engineered also…
one of the rare big issues when it comes to elektron hardware…since there, this is GENERALLY NOT the case on any of the actual models…a bit of a bummer, since twiddeling knobs is such an essential thing u do with swedish gear…

so, yes, don’t force it any further from the outside…since then, u gonna damage the unit for sure…

it does not talk cc…it’s ment to be tweaked manually…while the classic accent of 303 behaviour is realized by velocity…all values beyond 120 in velocity make that note automaticly behave as an accent…

and therefor, given the fact that it’s one of the easiest, cheapest AND most convincing truu analog 303 clones out there, turn that volume knob back on full or lowest position and glue that poti capsule back to where it came from…and use it as originally intented…

or open it and proceed a serious hack…

3 Likes

Thanks, yes, I love this synth! An amazing little box that sounds wonderful, I never missed CC controlling, and just thought that since I tweak it by hand I’d honor it with better knobs. I’ll see further if that possible by opening it but won’t try forcing it from the outside!

1 Like

I forgot: welcome to the board! And thanks again to share this information as your first post, I feel honored :slight_smile:

3 Likes

2 Likes

Youhou! I see, thanks. I’ll try with a string as suggested by @L-Funk

1 Like

I usually use a plastic pry tool like this for phone screen repairs.

2 Likes

That is the professional Version :wink: :wink:

1 Like

I make my spudgers from sawed off toothbrush handles, you don’t get the leverage of that tool, but a pair can help tease a cap off too

2 Likes

What do you have in mind?