Problem with Machinedrum battery holder

Hi there!

I have had my MD mk2 non-uw for two years now. Last year it started having issues with having glitchy screens whilst booting and it not booting completely. I replaced the battery and for about half a year I didn’t have any issues.

Now I have the same problem again. I have to disassemble my MD every day to press the battery and check every connector. It seems to be the battery though: The battery seems to slighty pop out its position because the holder is too snug of a fit.

Does anyone know this issue? I have already bent the metal of the holder to go a bit more upwards, in order for it to touch the battery even when it pops out a little, but it doesn’t seem to work.

First it was every few weeks, then every few days, now every day, and now several times a day. It’s weird how the occurence of the issue is becoming more and more.

are you really sure its the battery? maybe you have a loose ribbon cable somewhere and it gets a bit better contact everytime you open it?

Could be it. I’ve heard this is a common issue. But the thing is that today when I opened it up it seemed to be only the battery that came loose that caused the issue.

But I actually have two issues: one is the black glitchy screen and the other is booting the elektron logo and then getting stuck there.

Perhaps I have both a ribbon issue and a battery.

The ribbons always seem to connect firmly. I already cleaned them several times with isopropyl alcohol. I can’t seem to wrap my head around how they could be the problem. Perhaps I have to have them all replaced just to be sure.

If you have a hot glue gun, it would be easy to apply one small dot of glue at the edge of the battery (to make the edge of the battery connected with the board beneath it) while holding it firmly in place (in the holder). Not enough glue to be a problem removing the battery or the glue if this does not prove to be the issue and you no longer want it there. After hot melt glue sets (quickly) it will not move. If the problem goes away, you know it was the battery. If the problem does not go away and the battery has remained stationary, it will point you in another direction.

If you don’t have a hot glue gun $5 on amazon is a pretty average price. Hot melt glue is commonly used in electronics assembly as it sets fast and is non conductive.

Again, if you choose to do this, only use the smallest amount so that there won’t be a huge glob in the way if you want to remove the glue or the battery.

Also, batteries themselves aren’t extremely expensive therefore it goes without saying that you could consider seeking out the same kind of battery but perhaps with a smaller body, there may be very small micrometer differences between maker’s physical manufacturing specs and that may be all that it takes.

Aaah my dude, that’s a really good idea! I have been tinkering with this issue for a while now. First I was thinking non-conductive tape, or putting a piece of metal for conduction between the metal strip of the holder and the battery. But I will definitely try this.

Hopefully it will solve the issue (but I’m afraid it will not be my last quarrel with my beloved MD).

If the holder is directly above the pcb, like it edges right up to it, the kind of shit I usually do is take a square of blue painters tape, something easily removed. I lay it flat stuck onto the board right up to (or under if possible) the thing I want to non-permanently glue. then after the painters tape which is easy to remove is firmly in place, I’ll put a little glue on top of it, that way if I don’t want it to be there anymore, I’m not scraping it off the pcb. If it’s something like wires that are really thin gauge and I want to reinforce the soldered part on the pcb, then I glue right onto it because I know I’ll never want to remove them. Something like what you’re doing, I make go the extra step with a piece of masking tape (painters tape or whatever).

this only works if there’s enough space between components though. if there’s no room, I’d just put a little dot there anyways and pick it off the board if I don’t want it anymore.

Really, if it came down to it, you could solder another remote battery holder by wire to both sides of the normal battery holder, but I’d look for a battery that better fits the factory unit first if it came down to that.