yeah it’s definitely the socket 
Anybody fixed one of these themselves?
Contact support. Luckily the PSU board is a separate board (and the least expensive to replace).
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My first Octatrack had this issue. It was ~2 years old when I got it (bought it second-hand). For some reason my unit restarted itself from the slightest shaking or even when I was touching the power chord. The seller offered me to send me a replacement PSU. But I refused & sent it back, since I was pretty positive it’s some kind of an internal problem.
I also made a short video to visualize the problem back then: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eyiQaR_Pbo
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Save yourself the time of it being sent off by opening it up and reflowing the solder connections of the socket to the board… I bet the solder connection has broke and giving you intermittent connection… Quite an easy fix if this is what I suspect… if you are in Toronto I can do it for you…
Save yourself the time of it being sent off by opening it up and reflowing the solder connections of the socket to the board… I bet the solder connection has broke and giving you intermittent connection… Quite an easy fix if this is what I suspect… if you are in Toronto I can do it for you…[/quote]
agreed
get it done by an ‘expert’ if you’re not comfy with soldering
but before that - check there’d be no warranty issues !
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my niggling (infrequent) issue with OT psu is that it is the only one which has on occasion worked its way out (and off !) - frequently when i look at it it has gone half way off - i think it’s because the psu cable is stiffer and more likely to do this - it either needs a firmer grip internally or a retaining hook to stop this
mine has been doing this. I contacted support and they wanted a video of it happening. I don’t have time to be without any of my machines right now, I don’t know what to do.
I’m not sure if it would be sufficient but there’s a video on YouTube showing the issue.
I’ve had this issue with my mk1 OT for years (as well as the headphone issue), and since mine is now 9 years old I figured I’d try fixing it with a friend, so here I am doing research. Hoping it’s just a couple bad solder joints.
I had a really annoying touchy power socket issue, solved by a small flat screw driver after reading this @Kovalsky’s post.
Faulty PSU / socket - did anyone experience this?
I did it again recently, after 2 years, bent more. If it’s too easy to remove the PSU, check this.
This is more of an FYI for anyone searching this in the future - make sure you issue is not actually the place where the cord to wall inserts into the power brick area of the power supply. I’ve had issues where power seemed flakey only to discover that the connection there was loose and movement caused the power to drop out. Make sure that connection is tight.
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Hey man,
I have the same issue with my OT man. Power socket or cable finicky.
At first if I moved the cable right it would turn on.
Now my OT won’t turn on at all.
Can you help?
Im in GTA
Cheers
I can’t personally help
But i’d encourage you to source one of these, or even a cable with one of these attached
So you’d either solder on the DC barrel or you’d splice the good end onto the OT psu cable having removed the suspect barrel
Firstly you should (i.e. definitely) check the PSU with a voltmeter, these can be handy around teh house and you don’t need a fancy one to read DC voltage
Check the PSU output is correct and see if teh cable entry to teh barrel is loose and interrupting teh power (if any)
You need some way to establish what is +ve with either the replacement of teh barrel or adding a cable end - the barrel is neater, but the cable method can at a push be done temporarily and safely without any tools, but you’ll need to be confident about isolating the two cores twisted together
I’ve done both recently a new barrel and reversing polarity of a cable by splicing the cable and flipping it - but i have soldering kit and heatshrink tubing and ways to make it neat and sturdy
Sounds like the barrel is a not uncommon issue - if you can access or do DIY then that might be a lot cheaper than a replacement (or substitute) - but not if you need to buy tools you may not need afterwards
Obviously with all of these posts - do all the due diligence yourself, don’t trust a stranger on the internet - but at one extreme if you have teh knowledge and kit then your solution could be a dollar or so away with one of these (i.e. SIMILAR)
PS you’ll probably be looking for a DC barrel with a sleeve diameter of 5.5mm and a pin entry hole of 2.5mm - the ones which are not too long on the exposed shaft should be right
see here
in fact it mentions a 6mm long shaft, those might be less common, the 9.5mm ones will be fine but will sticj out a bit and tbh i don’t like that
Lool yea i cant try anything that you just said. BUT I just called this electronic repair shop on Dufferin & Lawrence and the guy said bring it in.
Good reviews on google so Im hoping someone like that can probably do all the stuff you just mentioned.
Thing is, when I look into the power socket it all looks good, like nothing looks bent or loose.
But I know for sure its the socket because the OT just restarted mid beat when I touched the power cable by mistake…
Thanks for the help Ill let you know how it goes.
Thing is tho, Im I responsible for this shit? I bought the OT from a dude in BC off Kijiji and he told me the thing works.
So he shipped it. I’ve had issues with it from day one where it was stuck in Demo Mode when I first got it AND it wouldn’t turn on but only after many tries.
Ive only played with it for literally 3 hrs max
well that’s another issue - but it may be less of a headache to get the barrel swapped out if teh electrician agrees - it’s either that or the receiver on teh OT but any tech guy will know in a few seconds where the issue is - especially if they can offer up a 6v 3a power cable with the right barrel type/polarity to test - it’s an easy thing to detect and fix - but taking it to a person charging by teh hour may be more costly than sourcing a new psu if they’re setting minimum charges - all depends i guess, but teh part is cheap and the low skill job can be diagnosed and done in a few minutes tbh
needs to be a decent barrel like the one shown, good for a few amps - some thin metal cheap ones are rated for low amps <1
and wired centre positive obviously as per specs linked - 10 mins tops all in
So the repair shop suggested that I ship the OT back to them and they’ll cover the shipping costs to send and return.
Sounds like a good deal.
Sounds like the right solution for the wrong problem
If the OT was repaired by an Elektron repair centre then they wouldn’t necessarily have taken or used your PSU, but your OT would have been powered up with a PSU that worked
It does sound like your PSU is goosed in teh way mine was - so they wouldn’t be repairing or testing that - meanwhile you’d be needing your OT to get its PSU barrel (probably) tested and fixed
I’m not sure having your OT sent in is a sound plan - but if that’s what they suggest based on your explanation then run with it i guess - it does seem a little odd though to ship an OT when it seems more likely to be just the PSU
- ps presumably Mk1, that’s what those numbers above relate to (wrt 6v 3a)
I found out that 3 of the connector wires on the PSU board where complete loose, not soldered at all. I used the device for 1 1/2 year and never had any issue but then the OT reboots or loose power very sporadic. The warranty was over so i fixed it myself by resolder the wires & ac-port, now it works fine again. See attachment for the wires, i soldered it from the lower board side & used high quality silver solder & flux pen.
I reported it to Elektron and now will see if they come up with something because the price of the OT wasnt not cheap as a slice of bread.
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I didn’t read through the thread but I bought an mki from a friend and any movement of the OT would reboot it. I ended up taking a risk and slightly squishing the tubular power adapter plug with a pair of vice grips (as you can set their closed ‘depth’ by tightening them over the plug’s end, remove the plug, and then tighten them just a hair more) so I didn’t accidentally totally smush the thing. It hasn’t done it in a year since, but your mileage may vary. For me, it was obviously just a loose contact at that specific point.
I was super bummed at first…
I got reply from Elektron, they just say that they are happy that i had fixed it and offered me a free soundpack. Thats hilarious but yeah, seems the common way of pseudo positive tech support. Buying a device for 1500€ with a factory issue and get this answer it’s a joke, even when the warranty is over.
I’ll take that free soundpack if you don’t want it