Octatrack MKI Look & Feel vs MKII and MKII black

The design of the first OT series is much more interesting and attractive, it seems to me.
I don’t know which knobs are in mk2, but
the bold minus in mk1 design is disgusting knob, which changed color and was erased. I did not see the point of installing the same. Therefore, at my leisure, I built a machine that makes knob.
Now I have oak knobs and even with a phosphor.
The machine that will make the crossfader cap I will deal with later.

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No way! Impressive! Aren’t you a bit crazy? (in a good creative way of course!).
Seriously, no Photoshoping for the phosphor thing? Would it work with red or white color? I wouldn’t stand other colors…

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They sell pigments in red but the blue/green range is much brighter owing to the chemistry of phosphorescence. The red is more of an orangy pink also, if that makes a difference.

edit: I looked it up and there are some ranges with dark red and white, which is new since I played with this type of stuff. I still wouldn’t trust the advertising though, they always make it look like the pigments glow more than they actually do in practice.

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No photoshop. This is a really working phosphor. In fact, I had to study the issue of phosphors quite deeply.
Everything is quite limited. But specifically, there is a red color. The latest development in this area. Instant charge from even the weakest light source. I think there will be enough light from the device display or LEDs. But at the same time, there is a very short afterglow period. Although I think that in this case it will no longer matter.
Such a red phosphor is the most expensive and, to be honest, I have no time to do it yet. I come up with various other devices. But it is to the red phosphor in the context of OT that I will definitely return.
UPD: found a photo. The very first knob just out of the machine. Not yet polished or tinted. And yes, this pigment is the most effective. Therefore, I chose it for experiments. It is especially good in the presence of any UV light source. Even a small LED will make it active.

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I love the knobs! :heart_eyes:

Can you show us your “knob machine”?

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Awesome! Really look great! :elot: :heart:

Those oak knobs are beautiful!

Yeah. Next time I’m in my suburban workshop.

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They are very cool knobs, but the fluorescent only lasts a while, right? And I think it is very toxic if it comes in contact with the skin. Wouldn’t it be better to have a knob with a led and a small battery and a power button?

The afterglow time depends on the pre-lighting time. The maximum glow time of these particular knobs is more than 3 hours. Although the stated time of visible afterglow of the used pigment is up to 14 hours. But this applies only to the pigment and not its mixture with the polymer, which was used to make knob.
How did you decide that the contact of the luminous layer would be harmful to the skin? After all, this is not white phosphorus or a radioisotope light source. Together with the packaging of the luminescent, the seller gave a copy of the safety certificate and, at my request, a technical and chemical specification sheet. This was necessary for me to assess the possibility of subsequent machining. The equipment in the milling part of the machine is not cheap and it would be foolish to wear it out with some super-hard particles.
Well, as for knobs with an LED and a battery inside - alas, the idea makes no sense from the engineering, design and marketing side. It’s not worth it. Although you can set a goal and make this kind of knob, but not on batteries, but on wireless energy transmitters under each knob. However, this will require a constructive change in the metal case, replacement of the removed metal with a polymer and installation of a transmitting antenna around the encoder axis. Around each encoder. Add in the production of a knob with a built-in antenna, LEDs (one is indispensable) and a converter.
The cost of another pair of OTs will come out.
I also considered the option of installing UV LEDs under the knobs. And, perhaps, I will return to this option, because this type of phosphorescent shows excellent training results even with weak UV sources. In this version, it will look great. However, it will also require some modification of the instrument panel. Thanks for the thought. I somehow forgot about her. Now I’ll write it down in my notebook.

Any reason to get the black special edition vs the grey? The lights are dimmer, better on the eyes on the black or not?

The 1.40 firmware has an option to adjust the LED brightness to low, medium or high (the original setting), so you can dim them on the greys too.

N.B. black is not a special edition, it’s just a new case. Nothing else different about it.

The Anniversary Edition (limited to 300 units, all sold) has some extra samples only available with that edition, and different colour buttons and lettering on the faceplate. Otherwise, it’s the same as the grey and the non-Anniversary black.

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Thanks a lot!!