Hey all, I recently had the button sets for the MD & MnM meticulously 3D scanned and then remodeled as step files. Attached below are the files and some photos of test prints. The small knobs will obviously also work on most every other Elektron if you want to replace any sticky rubber knobs. It also would be pretty easy to approximate the Octatrack buttons using these as they use the same key switch holes iirc.
Lastly, If anyone has any button sets for modern boxes they’d like scanned, DM me and we can see about getting them remade, I just don’t own any of the modern boxes that are more troublesome in terms of rubber coating deteriorating.
This is a major flex so first off, nice work and thanks for making it publicly available
I think that the modern buttons are a bit complicated in that the LED light shines through indicating trig status (ie locked, trigless trig, recorded trig, etc.) so you either need a totally clear button which is extremely hard on the eyes but gives a true indication of the RGB light status, or a laser cutting process with maybe a clear inner shroud and an outer shell which is opaque and has the numbers cut out.
People might be able to make it work using a dark smoked clear filament so as not to go blind when in use, but with the smoked buttons it would probably be difficult to differentiate the white LED from the yellow, etc. Maybe there’s a middle ground with a semi opaque white or something, I don’t know.
Some people may not care and want clear buttons anyways, but what I’m saying is that it’s very generous of you but don’t put too much of your own time and work into something which doesn’t benefit you personally.
What you’ve provided is really cool already, so cheers for that.
Yeah I had this thought too. I don’t even think you’d need a clear smokey color though. Most 3D printed resin materials allow a lot more light through than injection molded ABS print so they would basically act more like a lampshade for the LEDs, especially in a lighter color. Not really my can of worms though as I don’t see a modern box in my future besides maybe a Tonverk
But I’d be happy to see about getting scans & models made for them if anyone wants.
(also not my work here mostly, a guy I know has a 3D scanner and he did most of the reverse engineering here. But I did some clean up on the step files.)
I’ve never even opened up my MD so I’m curious how easy it is to swap buttons and the big wheel. I know the encoders just pop off with the tiniest effort.
I’m imagining trig colors in the 808 style arrangement might be fun. Or getting fancy with sixteen steps in some subtle gradient.
Hi jw, I have tried to print the STEP files you uploaded, sadly I did have some warping when printing in SLA resin.
I have tried to add support walls to prevent warping, your step files were converted to STEP 203 and then imported to Solidworks, I then saved the solidworks part file as a new step 203 file.
Maybe someone can get some use out of it.
I will now try to print in harder SLA resin material.
Hey @jw thanks so much for making these, and to @acidbob for the revision! I’ve just ordered some test prints (maybe excessive but I am going to try to test them in ABS, ASA, PLA, and SLA to see which gets closest to the look and feel of the originals). I’ll update here with my findings Trying to replace some white buttons that have gotten pretty yellow.
It worked great with the support walls, I ended up making them in:
PETG
Resin (industrial/tough)
The PETG ones came out shiny and was quite good and the resin ones had almost the same surface structure as the original ones.
I think both would be good for long term use, obviously resin is most durable against moisture and grease from the skin, and you get finer details.
But PETG is absolutely fine and is usually more durable/can flex a bit, but prone to becomming brittle over time by absorbing moisture.
Good to know!
I will absolutely post photos of the results.
Yeah I’m hopeful for the SLA resin – with the company I went with, the result will be grey rather than white for that one given the type of resin they use, but it seems to be the one with the finest details. Then again, another material might offer closer color and texture, we shall see!