I have a Casio Celviano AP 220 Keyboard that won't turn on

The Lounge Other Gear
#1

Any advice is appreciated.

I’ve had ol’ reliable since 2009 and about a week ago it decided to not turn on. I hoped and prayed it was a power supply issue, so I went and bought a replacement–but nothing.

Any folks familiar enough with electronics to take some guesses as to what it might be? For instance, if I were to pop this bad boy open myself and take a look, what would I need to be on the lookout for? Maybe the on-button somehow came detached from the physical thing that turns the piano on? I am considering taking it to my local synth repair guy, but money is a bit tight and also he usually has a waiting period of up to 6 weeks!

The terrible irony is that this piano is far and away my most played instrument…It’s the only one I play nearly every single day, and I was consistently practicing and getting better. I don’t have anything that can replace it :frowning: It’s the only weighted key digital piano I own.

I reached out to their support so we’ll see what they say.

#2

Does it have a wall wart type power supply? That could be the culprit. Closely inspect the cable immediately where it comes out of the plug end. They’re susceptible to damage to the insulation which could lead to a short. I take it you don’t have a multimeter. If you did you could test the output of your wall wart.

You could open the synth up and carry out a visual inspection. You might see something obviously burned/damaged but more often than not you won’t see anything. Beyond that you’d need to get a tech to have a look if you’re not well up on electronics.

If you’ve got other gear you could check to see if you’ve got another wall wart with matching specs and use that to test the keyboard. Voltage and polarity have to be the same and ideally able to supply enough or more current than the original. Be very careful everything matches before plugging in!

#3

Like I said, I went and bought a full-replacement power supply and it doesn’t work :frowning: I also don’t have a multimeter–hence why i bought it in the first place lol.

This is the exact thing I bought.

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#4

Sorry dude, my eyes skipped that line🙈

#5

Quite often its just the on off switch that fails. Ive had a few bits of gear have that. On the Vermona lancet I had, it was just the spring inside the switch. Easy repair. With the sh101 I replaced the switch.

Worth having a look yourself. Look for damaged wiring, check the switch component out. Then look at the wiring near the power socket. If you have a soldering iron all that stuff is easy to fix yourself. Good luck!

#6

I don’t have a soldering iron and I’ve never done that before…I also think it’s a failed on/off switch, as there was a time right before it totally failed where I pressed it on and nothing happened. I thought that was strange, so I pressed it off then back on again and it worked. The next time I tried turning it on was complete failure.

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#7

Well, there’s never been a better time to learn soldering! If you have lots of gear, a soldering iron will save you paying someone else for basic repairs such as failed switches, scratchy potentiometers, broken wires, blown caps etc.

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#8

#1 Make sure it’s plugged in :joy:

#2 Check things that the user interacts with. The DC jack on the back, the button or switch to turn it on.

#3 Check fuses if they are available.

#4 Broken solder joints make up a large percentage of failures. If possible, put fresh solder on the dc jack’s solder pins and button or switch pins on the PCB.

#5 You really need a multimeter after this. You can start looking for IC’s around the power inlet. Look for large (relative to the other components) black boxes labeled 7805 or 7809 and put fresh solder on the 3 pins of those. Look for burns or black housings on the IC that have a hole blown in them.

#6 Start checking the voltages of the IC’s listed above with a multimeter. Generally 5V +- as well as 12V DC are pretty commonly used. Replace those that aren’t reading correctly at their outputs. You can always search for the data sheet for a component and check what it “should” be doing.

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#9

That could be other things besides the switch but it’s not a bad place to start.

Seriously, a cheap multimeter from the hardware store even, would help you with many future things besides this. Probably can get one for $20. Just make sure it reads DC voltage and can beep for continuity.

#10

Good advice from @Airyck.
If you’re lucky you can sometimes narrow in on a diagnosis with the “jiggletronics” approach. In your case, jiggle the power plug/jack and also the power switch (when in the on position). If you get intermittent response from either then you know those areas should be investigated further.

#11

This goes with my wooden chopstick method. A wooden chopstick won’t short anything out so you can bang and tap on various IC’s to see if there is broken solder joint or loose component.

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