I hooked up a headphone splitter on the OUTPUT and then connected headphones as well as another 1/8" TRS cable back into the INPUT. Then adjust the input level (X knob) and how much of the signal to loop back through the FX chain (Y knob).
One like I used:
Or one like this would work too:
Here is a document I created as a quick reference guide (inspired by the cheatsheet by spongefile) that can be printed and cutout. It is sized to fit over the battery cover. I just used a couple small pieces of scotch tape to attach.
Can anybody think of why all of a sudden all of my projects now share the same bpm, and if I change it then now they all are changing?
do you have clock set to ext in the settings? nevermind, just tested on mine and that shouldnt be the problem. that is odd, are you sure you are switching projects? theres nothing plugged into your sync or midi inputs?
My tip: Double Time.
And if your Tempo is slower than 100bpm:
Quadruple Time. It makes the sequencer have (2x) 4x the resolution: (96x2=192ppq) 96x4=384ppq.
With quadruple time one bar becomes a quarter note, which is quite easy to adjust number wise, even easier than double time, which is still fine. Metronome is going crazy, though.
Not sure this qualifies as a tip, but people did it on the old MPCs (+ SP1200) and for a reason, i guess.
I came across a situation where I would try to sequence a digital piano and upon re-listening to my midi recording on the Ep-133 I felt an old, well known despair creeping up: did I really play so badly? After blaming cables, latency, midi jitter and my own skills, i came across a forum thread on the mpc forum describing a similar problem. Someone suggested double time and here I am , on the ep-133, swearing by it. it really makes a difference for nuanced live played stuff like piano. less so for drums. I am happy again.
It is just subtle, low-key, slightly better at capturing some nuances of the performance. For most stuff it won’t matter. For some stuff it might be worse. I use it all the time.
Hi guys, very simple yet obvious question. Is there a way to pitch up or down individual samples accurately (I mean it) by a whole tone within the same group?
The only way I found so far is by using the Y knob but it’s quite hard to fall on the correct key and it becomes quite the guessing game.
Shift+Y does show the data but it lowers the sample by max half tone increments so not enough for a whole tone.
Thanks 
when holding shift it should give you a range of ~1.6 or so steps, it is annoying but you have to get as close as you can without the visual feedback and then fine tune from there.
i think this change was a weird move, they should have kept it as transposing by whole steps and then get granular with shift. i blame the people with more feature requests than music.
it may be less of a hassle to use KEYS in chromatic scale mode to get the most accurate transposition, then just sequence from KEYS or resample it to a new pad
Huge help there!!
I see what you mean, turning the Y knob by ear and then hitting “shift” doing small taps will flash which increment you’re at so let’s say I need to hit “2.00” which corresponds to a whole key down, I try to get as close as a can like 2.48 or 1.87 or similar while doing small shift taps then can fine tune from there while holding shift as I have a whole 1.60 step range indeed!
THANK YOU
awesome! im glad that helped, i realized the tapping method is probably the best route to go after posting so its cool that you figured that out too!
this is kind of a silly tip
i was trying to resample a chord last night on the ep133 but i still had the recording setting on MIC so when i tried to resample it recorded the chord from the speaker rather than internally. gave it a crunchy almost downsampled kind of sound to it. took me a few moments to realize why it sounded so different
So we should shape the sound based on where the EP is, inside a small kitchen drawer, in a bright sounding bathroom, near a big glass jar, a karaoke toy microphone with built-in effects. Lots of possibilities. Nice tips.