You’re welcome!
The increased resistance is probably the grease being a bit thicker than the original.
If it feels more like a standard potentiometer that would make sense.
I have a Digitone with one encoder stiffer than the rest. It’s about 60% harder to turn. No harsh sounds or scratching feel, just harder to turn. Would Kontakt PR loosen it or should I use it on the other encoders to make those stiffer?
as it’s a used unit (i saw your other post, forgot to reply), the stiff encoder could be a newly replaced one. ask the seller or contact Elektron to find out. i wouldn’t use kontakt pr on it.
i had my F encoder replaced recently and it’s much stiffer and the push-click feels soft compared to the other encoders (the unit is 3 years old so the other encoders have had lots of use) so i guess it will wear in with normal use.
Hi. The unit is new, was used for a couple of weeks before it was sold to me. I really don’t think the seller had enough time to do any damage, the unit is in an immaculate state and I had a very long and deep conversation with him and I can vouch he didn’t damage it. Now, I don’t know if he bought it new in-store or got a refurbished unit so that might be the case regarding the encoder.
I will ask the seller again and send an email to Elektron with the serial number and ask for a service history, if any exists.
I didn’t damage mine either - encoders can just fail after regular use
If the encoder works as it should, I wouldn’t do anything with it.
There can be a lot of difference in feel between encoders, also when they are new.
Keep in mind that this is also a fairly new product from Alpha so it’s probably still being optimized.
It could be as simple as the encoder coming from a different batch.
(They’re not encoders by the way, they’re endless potentiometers. The P in Kontakt PR stands for potentiometer. Encoders may need a different product.)
The encoders on my AR2 were waayyy too sensitive (annoying to dial in a tempo without it jumping all over the place). Happy to say that the latest OS update I installed corrected that issue.
I’ll use this thread, however everyone seems to talk one step ahead of me. Back to basics question:
I have an A4 mk1 with one encoder that seems to be starting to fail. The rest are fine, but this one reacts a lot less. I basically have to use push-turn always otherwise I have to twist it many turns to change an adequate amount of values.
What is the process of replacing encoders? From the forum I gather you can buy them from Elektron. So if I do, then what? Can you just stick a new one in as a noob that doesn’t have two left hands? Or do you have to do de-soldering and soldering and stuff? What’s the process of replacing encoders?
It probably just needs a clean. I’ve repaired OT encoders before when they’ve become jumpy. There’s a YouTube video I followed which along with help from fellow Elektronauts gave my OT a brand new lease of life!
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Okay that’s good to hear I can give that a try
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You’ve described exactly the fault I have with my Level encoder (A4mk2). It sometimes jumps around by itself meaning the sound pool menu can open if I hold a trig 
Sometimes some of my 10 endless encoders (A4mk2) take half a second to kick in, I’d turn it and the synth parameter only starts to move after a delay.
I’m sending it in for repair to replace one really faulty encoder but do you think I should ask them to replace the aforementioned encoders too, or is this kinda normal behavior on Elektrons?
I’ve got a wonky encoder on my Octatrack. It skips all over the place when turning, basically unusable 
Dumb question, but…to those that have gone the route of Midi control, is there a way to assign a controller to act as Encoder C, to control whatever parameter C would control in that page, or would you have to assign one knob on the outboard midi device to each parameter C would control in each page?
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Nope
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Thanks. That’s what I assumed, but I thought I’d ask anyway. I’m sure I’ll be in the market for a"box of knobs" Midi controller at some point.
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… possibly consider being in the market to have the offending encoder swapped out by a local repair tech
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My D potentiometer is kind a rough and a bit harder to move from static position than other encoders. It also feels scratchy. It works though but there is no pleasure. Contacted Elektron - they offered new potentiometer that cost $4. Shipping cost is $30. What??? I can replace potentiometer myself but I don’t have a good equipment as professionals have so I’ll have to pay around $15 for a replacement. So $49 for a bad potentiometer? There are nine crappy potentiometers in this unit. It feels like $105 Korg Volcas have better quality pots. It’s not quality control issue, it’s a marketing issue. You can easily choose a bit more expensive pots that will last much longer and will feel much smoother. Even MPC One and Akai Force have much nicer and smoother potentiometers. Those pots that Elektron use dries out very fast. The grease dries out and makes your life uncomfortable. I’d say I never buy anything from Elektron anymore despite I have 2 Digitakts and Syntakt, I won’t buy anything from TE too as my OP-Z came bent, some buttons were stuck and power/volume pot fell apart the first day. Innovation must not only be in philosophy of the unit but also in a quality. Made in Sweden (as a philosophy) sucks…
Did you open up the digitakt yet to verify that it isn’t just hair or lint or something else wrapped around the encoder? Sometimes this is the problem and when removed works much better. Another symptom of this is that the encoder button is harder to press or sometimes less responsive when you push it down (doesn’t consistently register the button has been pushed). Once opened, you’d need to detach the upper PCB from the faceplate to confirm whether this is the issue. Sometimes if it’s very obvious you might be able to see it with a bright light shined inside from above after pulling off the encoder knob.
It might just be a faulty encoder as you assume, but I’ve read several threads where the problem is some kind of obstruction of the shaft / bushing gap.
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I’ll definitely check on things you’ve mentioned.
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I’d say all potentiometers feel super cheap and not smooth, like there is some portion of sand inside. I have other gear to compare with and once I got my Digi for the first time I was disappointed. I had problem with stuck encoder on Microfreak too and had to replace it. Insides of that encoder were ruined after slight use. I sold Microfreak despite it being one of my favorite pieces of gear. I think EU companies must do quality control and choose parts wisely. Look, Swedish Elektron uses cheap parts, Swedish Teenage Engineering uses cheapest parts, Italian IK Multimedia uses crappy parts, Polish Polyend uses crappy parts. Arturia is a bit better in this but still those faulty encoders can be found on their top devices. I’ve never had any issues with Korg, Roland, Yamaha, even their cheapest equipment works flawlessly for years. After many years of experience in buying gear, I’d think twice before buying a music gear designed in EU.