Electricity concern

Warning: a lot of clueless assumptions about home wiring ahead

When I first purchased my Genelec M030s I had them plugged into a certain socket and it broke them both. There were reported concerns about these particular speakers electrical parts in the beginning, but in retrospect I think it was the socket. I think it was because the same socket was connected to the kitchens wiring which had on it all those high running machines. Fortunately they were both covered by warranty and we’re repaired. Warranty is long gone and we’re moving into a new flat and I’m freaked that this will happen again.

Is there anyway to test whether a socket is suitable for our kind of equipment? I’d appreciate any advice in the matter. Tia

If you can work out which circuitbreaker or fuse on the switchboard is connected to the kitchen appliances (gonna assume the fridge is a major culprit) you can switch it off and see which other powerpoints are on the same circuit.

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Oh that’s great info to start. Thank you.

Can it happen kitchen appliances would be the culprit? Would a surge protector help?

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It’s pretty common for the fridge powerpoint to have its own circuit due to the compressor kicking in and out.

Once had a large sub plugged into a power distribution board when my partner plugged in a vacuum cleaner and switched it on - made quite a noise.

Surge protector might help with spikes - generally a good idea regardless (clean power etc) but prolly best to avoid the fridge circuit

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Thanks yo.

No worries!

Are you in the uk? Over here we tend to use ring mains for socket outlets. I believe in other countries they tend to use radial circuits. We use radials here too but for less compared with ring mains, especially for sockets. With a ring main you essentially have a loop of cable running from the fuseboard to each socket (cable in and cable out) then returning to the fuseboard. The idea is to split the total load across two cables in parallel. With a radial circuit you have a single cable feeding one or several sockets without the return leg to the fuseboard.

Point is with a ring main if one socket works fine then the others should. All that can go wrong would be for the individual socket to fail (usually the switches give up or get crap and plaster dust in them) or for an individual socket to be connected with reverse polarity. No one socket would cause something to fail that’s plugged into it unless your socket has a poor connection or failing switch in which case the current could be cutting in and out which might cause surges especially with inductive or capacitive loads which have an initial spike in the form of a high inrush current at power on. Motors are a good example of this.

With a radial you’ve got the possibility of one circuit wired incorrectly and if it’s just one socket on that circuit you’d only have issues with anything plugged into that socket.

You say you’re moving to a new place… you should get the landlord to get a periodic test carried out if they haven’t done already. They’ll test ring continuity, polarity and earth loop impedance amongst other tests. This should put your mind at rest that the wiring is safe and everything works as it should.

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I very much doubt the socket would be the culprit, even if the live and neutral were reversed at that socket it would not cause a problem to your speakers.

I suspect you simply had faulty speakers.

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Yeah there were a number of issues reported similar to mine. I moved them to a new socket after they returned from repairs and haven’t had an issue since.

Better to use a “Power Conditioner” for all your gear. Costs around 100

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Have you thought about switching to gas?

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Power conditioner is a good call, a lot of UPS have them built in at an inexpensive price point.

I’m also in the prolly not the outlet camp. Breakers pop when the current drops and starts to build resistance. A cheap multimeter can help determine that all is good to plug and play.

Good luck on the new flat, use a lamp and figure out what breakers are what and label them. Easier trouble shooting down the road. Also, sounding old (I’m not) always check the smoke detectors when moving in to a new place.

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Echoing @franz_maslow: use a power conditioner.

I set up my music stuff in a new location in our house (been here 5-6 years) and had strange digital distortion, static, and artifacts in the audio path. Switched from the (nice, not junky) power strip to power conditioner and the problems went away. It also doesn’t buzz like the power strip was buzzing when plugged into the same outlet!

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Thanks people. Power conditioners are not cheap things but for peace of mind could be ok. I need 16 outlets! Do people have two?

Power conditioners are also surge protectors but surge protectors are not necessarily power conditioners. Do I have that right?

Just plug some splitters in the power conditioner if you need more outlets. If you are up to rated amperage should be fine. The 85eur adam hall version has 10A which is probably enough.

Never plug the speakers in different house circuits than mixer or your gear, everything should be connected to only one loop or else you have grounding problem, buzz/broom or you can even fry stuff

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…in case of doubts…always a good thing to use one multisocket with it’s own dedicated fuse…take all ur sonic equipment power supply starting there and ur always good to go…

All good advice, I’ll add never plug a surge strip into another surge strip. If you do, be sure to check the smoke detectors more often then usual.

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Excellent advice and suggestion. Will use it as a reference in my research. Seems like a good product anyway.

So I can plug a power strip into the power conditioner, no problem? Ensuring I don’t go over the limit…

Can things go on the floor or do they have to be racked?

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Yup. It sucks to spend money on it, but think about the cost of everything you have plugged into it - would you rather have to pay for all of that again?

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Absolutely that but man if it clears up the constant noise issues I have too it will be so worth it.

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