But just for the community, this is the actual battery case I made specially for the “MyVolt” 100w battery. They sell this battery at 100€, but the exact battery are around 40/50€ on amazon under the name of BASEUS 100W, so that’s a good deal, and I get 5/6h of power with the MyVolt 12v USB C adapter.
1 Like
Looks nice.
I use a 20000mah Intenso powerbank and am happy with it. I bought a usb->12v converter fora around 10 euro and it runs smooth. I have never measured it but at constant use i would estimate it in the 2+ hours non stop use. The powerbank cost 20 euro. What i miss from all these solutions is a way to be able to have optical feedback on the charge level the pack is in at a given moment. I always have to turn the whole thing on its back if i want to see how much juice is left. Had some progress loss a few times when the DT shutt off cause of no battery anymore.
Hey Fatty.
Sorry to be bothering you again.
May i ask if anything changed and if i can find the 3dD file for your case anywhere?
Cheers
Hey guys.
Sorry for the long delay.
I will upload files on makerworld tomorrow.
I find to fix an issue I got with fixing point for the back plate. To give you a clean file with no problems, but unfortunately I can’t find the right alignment.
So some minor adjustments will be necessary.
But that’s doesn’t change the use at all.
I use the case I made until now and I don’t have any problems with.
I will explain all theses aspects on the 3D files page on makerworld.
You will also need inserts with iron solder.
I’ll give you more details tomorrow.
Have a good day
1 Like
Hey guys.
I will upload as soon as possible the file on maker world.
I’m training to fix the issue I have with the bottom plate.
At this time I use glued embases to fix the bottom plate for the bottom plate.
But I will add them directly to the 3D file so that will be easier to you to assemble the case with the Digitakt 2 or Digitone 2
2 Likes
Hi all,
I’m printing the last prototype I hope.
I made many adjustments to give you a proper 3D files without any issue with different 3D printers.
I’mw waiting for the print to finish, assembled and check if all is OK.
I also bought recently a Digitone 2, so I adjust the actual case to fit the Digitakt 2 and the Digitone 2.
I hope it will be ok to upload the file on maker world on Sunday.
Have a good weekend.
To assemble the unit, you will need M3 Ruthex insert.
That’s all.
2 Likes
Awesomeness!
How is it named? I cant find anything under „Elektron Slim Case“ but am not sure i am using the right Search term
Hi all,
I’m happy to finally share the 3D file case for the Elektron Digitakt 2 / Digitone 2 !
It took me some time to release it, but that was intentional.
I wanted to make sure the model is precise, clean and fully functional.
I didn’t want to rush something just for the sake of sharing.
This is version 6 of the case, with integrated mounting points.
A big thank you to the community for all the inspiration and support.
your shared knowledge and passion keep projects like this alive.
Please make sure to read the full description carefully before printing.
Results can vary depending on your 3D printer, filament, and calibration so adjust settings accordingly.
You can check it out and download the files here : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2419154-elektron-digitakt-2-digitone-2-3d-printed-case
Your feedback is of course very welcome !
3 Likes
That is pure Fantasticeness!
Will try it out as soon as i catch my breath from another project and report.
Looks very very cool!
Btw, have you tried it mid-long term in its behaviour on heat dissipation?
This is the only thing i am thinking about as i lack the technical backround required to predict if it has an effect on longevity of the device?
Hi,
I know this is something everyone is talking about on my post and on the posts talking about 3D printed case.
What I can say now :
I use the case in ABS and in PLA since October, about 6 months.
And what I noticed is exactly the same as with the original metal case.
I did a lot of long sessions in my studio with the original power supply, which heats up more than when I use a power bank and a 12v adapter.
Long 8 hours in constant and I haven’t had any problems so far.
The design is very similar to the Winston sliced case, so if he didn’t get issues with his case, it will be the same here.
I could perhaps add a kind of grid pattern on the sides, if it can reassure you, but it will bring in dust in long term use…
1 Like
No grid please- Looks sweet as it is.
My reasoning is and it is in my head, i cannot back it up technically,
That plastic has insulation properties. So i wonder if even if you open holes to the enclosure if it will be close enough in efficiency against how metal stores and then disperses heat.
On the other thing i think that there are so many devices in plastic enclosures….
I lack the technical know how and experience required to estimate how much cooling circuit board X needs and when its necessary and when not.
It not like every processor-device dies with a little heat.
I dont know what the tolerances are.
but i think no risk no fun.
I hope my thoughts come across as i got confused as to how to write them down….
Oh and forgot to ask.
Why do you Emphasize to use ABS?
PETG no good?
It’s only cause I do not try with PETG, and ABS is better than PLA for resistance.
But PETG and ABS are pretty like the same so I think it will be good to print in PETG.
Ans also PETG is safer than ABS that’s correct
1 Like
Hi Fatty.
One question, what infill are yo using with ABS?
Is it walls 100% and bottom 20% or bottom 40% ?
Need to check settings.
I will reply as soon as possible.
1 Like
Sorry was completely overwhelmed by a spontaneous work overload!
Thank you deeply for this.
I don`t possess a printer. A friend will do it for me
Also wenn i dont do this to my unit. It looks great and thanks for sharing this to all.