Hello. I recently resolved the power supply issue I mentioned in my Analog Four MK1 post, but now I’ve encountered another problem.
This time, it won’t turn on at all, and the monitor and LEDs aren’t responding. I tried disassembling it, and first suspected a problem with the DC plug socket. I measured the voltage, but it was unstable and hovered around 0.1mV. I measured it by holding a DC tester to the solder points on the left and bottom of the socket in photo 1. Is the measurement method correct? I also measured the solder points in photo 2, and the result was the same.
I confirmed that the plug voltage was 12V, so I think it’s a problem with the socket.
Thank you in advance.
So at the end of your cable you measure 12VDC, correct?
If so, I would then measure between all three PCB connections encircled in the 2nd image (as it is hard to see the traces in the image).
You don’t get 12V between any of the three possible combinations? Then your connector might be defective. If you get 12V somewhere I would then try to trace that to the switch, repeat the measurement there…
1 Like
Thank you.
I can see 12V from the cable to the plug at the end. The three soldering points in photo 2 do not provide 12V, no matter what combination they are. The readings are unstable, ranging from 0 to 0.1mV.
Is there a high possibility that the connector is damaged? However, there is no particular wobble and the soldering appears to be solid.
I would think so, even if everything looks ok from the outside…
1 Like
Possible wrong plug? I remember having similar issues on some gear when mistakenly used a plug with the hole inside the barrel of 2.5mm instead of 2.1mm.
1 Like
Thank you for comment.
I’m using the PSU-3c that comes with the my digitakt2, there shouldn’t be a problem.
I used a tester to check the socket for electrical continuity. It turned out that there was electrical continuity between the socket center pin and one point on the circuit board, but there was no electrical continuity between the sleeve and the circuit board. I’ve ordered the part from Amazon, so I’ll try replacing it as soon as it arrives.
I replaced the SC socket with a new one and the problem went away. The original Switchcraft socket was soldered in tightly and was very difficult to remove.
Thank you very much.
3 Likes
Nice work. You had a lot of trouble with this one.
1 Like
In the future, you can try reflowing the solder on the old part before removing it. Maybe 50% of the component replacements I’ve done on old synths must have had hairline solder cracks because reflow solved the problem.
Regardless, I’m happy to see that you were able to solve your problem.
2 Likes