might wanna try reseating the pcb connectors, failing that a new psu?
quote from my cohabitant
“it’s mad what people do with their time, isn’t it”
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2 days. But it is the coolest lamp I’ve ever had. I used my black faceplate, Chrismast leds, pencil caps, plexi and wood.
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Because I’m poor at drum programming and sequencing the most important piece of hardware is a drum machine. Particularly a drum machine that can auto generate.
I had a few machines over the years but my favorite for form factor, features , price and ease of use - nothing came close to the Volca drum .
I don’t even use it for electronic. I use it for all including metal. The op1F + volca drum = a perfect combo
Anyone else use their electronic drum machine for metal!?
Some Elektron users probably choose Elektron machine for heavy metal…case. 
Joined the gang today.
After a quick jam, a spring clean. Dusty.
Only a tiny bit of corrosion on the surface
Back together
Now to learn it!
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Thats true love 
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Big congrats 
This is one hell of a machine! Can’t believe that I can keep getting new sounds out of it. Perfect for electronic music.
@Elektron should definitely come out with a new version of the Machinedrum 
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Looking at the image more closely, this broken trace might be why LED 3 doesn’t latch off when the step is turned off. The step stops sounding, but the light stays on. The IC handles LED latching, so that would make sense.
I have a new soldering iron on the way so I’ll attempt to bridge it and report back.
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I have a Rytm MkII and I can see already how they compliment, not replace each other.
Bit of a learning curve working out where everything is, but I’ve found most of it already!
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If this is in the wrong thread, feel free to move it.
Looking at the Datasheet for the IC, it looks like pin 13 is input D4. If the led is turned on by another function, pressing Trig 3 isnt getting a signal into D4 to change the state and flip the LED off.
Btw this corrosion is right under the centre of the big jog wheels cutout, so i think it has resulted from a spillage in the area which has run down the inside of the panel and dripped onto the PCB. Likely it was at a slight angle.
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I would start a topic and ask for help. There should be someone that knows the information you seek, and you have a better chance at reaching more people if you start a new topic.
Call it something like ‘looking for help on the Machinedrum PCB’.
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And start with contacting Elektron support!
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Elektron support don’t have any PCBs and don’t repair MDs, so it’ll be an independent. It’s too small for me to replace the trace, but it doesn’t stop it being used in the mean time.
Just for fun, here’s some microscope images of the damage
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think you can drop a mk2 UI board in the MK1?
(faceplate wont fit back on)
I put an MKII faceplate on a MKI.
Only differences are leds (I bended them) and Func + Classic/Extended buttons, shifted by 1-2 mm on the right for MKII faceplate. I disoldered these switches for an inclination fitting shift.
Not easy but doable.
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im saying the reverse. an mk2 board with an mk1 faceplate…not enough holes for the 64 steps LEDs
plus you and I are mutants…we would happily drill new holes in a faceplate…
others (prolly not @RustyRoses) wanna keep their shit cherry and on a display pedestal
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I know. It is the same, but…reversed.
Plus 1 hole.
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There are lots of videos on yt how to repair such things (I like to watch Adrian Black’s videos, of stuff like battery damaged old PC motherboards).
Probably you need to take the PCB out, scrape away the turquoise stuff, remove the solder in the two holes (what’s behind them? Cables to a connector?), and then put a bodge wire from the chip’s legs to the respective holes. (If it actually just leads to a cable, you could run the bodge wire from the legs of the chip directly through the holes to the underside to the connector). And then put clear lacquer on the then still exposed and the reworked parts to prevent further deteriorating.
This tip was brought to you by “i watch youtube”.
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