great work, appreciate the info and yeah, please keep us updated on your progress!
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I’ll make sure to update you guys on this for sure. I tried to go with something that was an “active part” so it would be readily available. If it works and I make PCB’s, I’ll either make extra and sell them (for a fair price) and/or make the PCB files available to everyone.
I have some other mod ideas that I’ll spill if they come to fruition.
Hopefully I’ll find some time tonight to do some work on the OLED tests.
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I made some progress tonight. Mostly just removed the original LCD and cleaned up the holes.
It looks like my educated guess on the LCD was correct fortunately 
I also stripped and crimped one side of the 20 jumper.
I’m at a good stopping point for the evening, more details coming tomorrow.
Oh! Gotta hide the screws and knobs or my cat will steal them!
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Also, encoder A is acting up so I’ll swap that while it’s open. I think this was still under warranty but I usually just fix stuff (or break it, not as often) myself anyway.
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I really apreciate the effort you put into this. Ol’OT getting some attention. mine would love a shone oled, too.
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Nice work @Airyck I no longer have my mkI but I appreciate the effort you are putting in documenting your mod. Best of luck, although you look like you got this 
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I looked around and there are various mods (like the inverted LCD above) but nobody shares their information (or they had it done). Mine still has some life in it so I want to give it a better life 
More today hopefully. I should at least be able to try and turn on the OLED. Just have to finish the other side of the cable and solder on some headers.
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I appreciate you sharing your hardware hacking efforts with us. Mad respect.
I’d wish you luck but it looks like you got this. 
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Okay so here is the basic pin conversion from comparing datasheets.
The last 2 pins on the OLED are MPU Interface Pin Selections and it should be 6800 parallel 8-bit interface which shows BS1 and BS0 as “1” or logic level high aka 3.3V in this case. I think they should just be able to be tied high but I’ll let people know for sure when I figure it out for sure.
Pin 16 on the OLED goes to pin 17 (Reset) on the Octatrack.
Pin 17 on the OLED goes to pin 15 (CS1) on the Octatrack.
Pin 3 doesn’t matter as it’s a contrast control which is N.C. or not connected on the OLED
The last 3 pins on the original LCD are VEE negative output (pin 17) and backlight power supply +/- on pins 19 and 20 respectively.
I didn’t measure those so I’m going to leave them disconnected for now.
The connections in the diagram are “safe”, I’ll figure out the MPU select thing as I start to put it together.
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Sketch for the 3D printed mounting plate.
A temporary solution but this will help me determine what the PCB should be like if I go that route.
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Here’s the actual model for 3D printing.
The PCB would use standoffs instead of the mounting bosses built into the 3D model.
And now for a render that makes it look way cooler than it actually is…
I’ll attach the .stl (once it’s finalized) if anybody wants to 3D print this.
Though I might wait if I were you to see how well the alignment goes for me.
This is designed to sit on top of the little white plastic standoffs that are already on the Octatrack. The bosses bring the new OLED up to the level of the much thicker original LCD.
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It sits well in the slot but the alignment in the window needs some small adjustments.
It has to be exact since it barely fills the window.
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I’m enjoying this. More please!
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The next part is going to be a while and could make or break the project (using this OLED anyway)… software conversion… gulp…
Holy cow! @Airyck McGyver I presume? 
FWIW if this does not work out what about converting one of the 5v screens using one of these tiny logic shifter boards? https://www.adafruit.com/product/1875
Watching this with great interest!
What requires software conversion?
8bit parallel commands from one controller type to another type.