I just found this place which has a little short bookmaking course, fumbled my way through the booking page and booked a slot, looks cool!
https://www.kurauchi.co.jp/kamitowa/english/menu/redsealbook2/
edit : ah Japan, so reliable - turns out there’s an art book fair the weekend im there. I’ll be in Kyoto on the dates but guess I’ll just pop down on the train for the day, Osaka doesn’t seem far