This is a design upgrade I can get behind.
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I would be amazed if anybody in a Warhammer shop recommends anything except their own brand of paints. Games Workshop didn’t get profitable by recommending other brands!
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Something I thought of is that it might be easier to just mask everything off and use the rolled tape edge feathering technique and to just dust a little bit of matte clear coat over the existing black. As long as you can’t see the metal through the black right now, the clear coat should only add a bit of texture, it shouldn’t add any depth so you might get a decent match that way and even if a little goes over the other lettering, it’s clear so it shouldn’t obstruct them or be too noticeable. Something like the SEM matte clear would be good because I like their product but anything similar would proabably work.
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I’d like to see a full repaint of this in Vantablack: Vantablack
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Just stick some black electrical tape on it.
haha! I was think the same thing laying in bed last night.
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it’s not a great video but all the good ones are like 20 minutes long, just to clarify the concept though. I actually do this with a bit more of a “roll” than a “fold” like how they show, but it’s the same concept.
You can find more instruction on youtube if you need some different perspectives.
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I prefer the “just paint over” method 
Need to disassemble for this though. Warranty is long gone so nevermind.
Also, replacement faceplates are available at elektron if I ever want to go back.
(Except for the back though.)
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Well…
I prefer that method too…
Yeah but where are your Kick, Snare, Tom, Clap, Cowbell, Closed Hat, Open Hat and Cymbal? 
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I think you should just go in the opposite direction with this whole painting thing:
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WOW! 
Damn, now that I think about it.
Gues I’ll just go cowbell on T1-8 and do the rest via external gear and midi.
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kind of related to this thread: I have this Korg SE-300 and the previous owner painted a bunch of red dots around the knobs 
I’m scared that acetone will fuck up the original paint, anyone know how to safely get it removed?
If you’re super hyped on painting it all black, plasti-dip or any similar brand of rubberized coating can be peeled off later
more on plastidip
from my experience, it’s easier to peel plastidip off of a shiny surface, but I did just read something that said it comes off matte paint so again you’d have to experiment. I also found that the more of it you apply (the thicker you spray) the easier it is to remove. They have a matte black and a regular black, these are not my pictures, but this person did a split panel of half matte and half regular and took pics in different lightings for comparison:
These 2 are my pictures, it’s just something I sprayed (a long time ago) with plastidip, it peeled off fine. That middle panel around the license plate that’s satin black was just plastidip over the white paint.
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If it’s an oil based or solvent based paint pen, you might be shit outta luck. If you pick at it with your fingernail, does it chip? If it does chip a little bit, try a thin plastic guitar pick or something else with an edge but less likely to scrape up the original paint than your fingernail and try to pick at it a little more, start with the red dot location that will bother you the least if you mess it up. Acetone will ruin that thing, the panel paint will probably come off before the red paint and the red paint will smear onto the other white areas, it’ll be a hot mess. something like that is going to be tough because the original paint and screen print is old and probably thin. you might have to live with it or risk making it significantly worse.
basically anything that can remove the red, will have a potential to damage the rest. If it’s someone’s girlfriend’s nailpolish and it’s not too tightly bonded, you might be able to chip away at it with that guitar pick, but it’s possible the red will still leave a film underneath and it can rapidly go from progress to damaging the surface if you go too far in trying to remove it.
If you get it down to that point, where it’s just a red tint red over the white letters, switch to a firm toothbrush with a little bit of detergent soap and water, keep it contained to that area and see if you can improve it, if you can’t, you might just have to quit while you’re ahead.
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yeah with a guitar pick or fingernail it won’t chip at all, I’d have to scrape it down with a knife in order to make any progress… I guess I’ll just live with it being a bit ugly. thanks for the help though!
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it’s all good. you could consider (carefully) covering it with flat black modeling enamel, or whatever the closest you can get to the panel color is.
Another thing that I am crazy enough to do but your level of obsessiveness may vary, is to take some nice thick masking tape and make an appropriate sized hole that fits perfectly around the dot, and then after verifying that masking tape itself won’t lift off the white silk screen, mask the area around a dot and file it a little bit with a flat sanding implement like an emery board or something you made yourself with a piece of acrylic glass and sticky sand paper. Only try and knock it down as far as (and flush with) the surface of the tape, being careful not to go THROUGH the tape, then after it’s leveled out a bit like that take a miniatures (ala warhammer or modeling kit etc) painting brush, paint match the black and paint a white dot in it’s place with as close as you can mix to the original white.
This is being super bothered by the red though, technically you could just knock down the surface shine a little to let the black paint have something to bite onto and then after the black paint is on, call it a day. Or live with the red, it’s annoying I’m sure but there’s like a 70% chance of making things worse in cases like this and it only lessens with experience in making things worse elsewhere and learning how to make things better.
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hah I don’t trust myself nearly enough to try to do something like that, I’d fuck it up for sure.
moral of the story, don’t make permanent doodles on your future classics 
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