This might interest some of you

shigginpit · 2023-10-18T18:36:18.666Z

the warhammer shop is a good place to start, you could even show them the actual box and say that you got a recommendation that a modeling paint might be able to be used as a touch up. They’re likely to make a face and say it might not help but they’ll ultimately give you some more recommendations and can at least point you towards the paint brand which most closely resembles this. Also, you might make a connection with someone at that shop who actually does use an airbrush and can help you touch it up but that’s likely to cost you some money.

I wouldn’t give your machine any extra dirt and dust just to find out, I think for the machine it’s not a good thing and that’s how people start developing problems with encoders and buttons getting gummed up. Just don’t stress off it too much because in the low light it will be less noticeable, as you say.

Lum · 2023-10-18T18:36:33.218Z

yh idk, you gotta live a little right?

curiosity is what drives creativity, and you try, fail and get back on it.

at the end of the day i see these boxes as tools that need to be usable and inspiring. maybe one day ill be perfectionist about a track, look at my digitakt and think. f*ck it, it works let’s get on with it and keep the music flowing

chiasticon · 2023-10-18T18:38:27.695Z

you might have to go full send: pull the panel, strip all the paint, and graffiti or sticker it like a Models box. then when you tire of that, pull the panel and strip it again…

shigginpit · 2023-10-18T18:40:49.009Z

In all fairness, elektron will sell you another faceplate if it were going to come down to that. It would be less of a headache than strip and paint, the cost would probably be minimal in the long run. I know they’ll sell you another faceplate.

Right now it doesn’t look bad enough to me to be thinking in that direction honestly.

Lum · 2023-10-18T18:40:51.974Z

i like where this is going.

so basically go full custom mode

Lum · 2023-10-18T18:42:50.983Z

i know as well, i have a md plate on my mduw. it’s not cheap tho

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shigginpit · 2023-10-18T18:46:38.581Z

dt is more common equipment, it’s also steel instead of aluminum and stock will be more plentiful, I think the cost will be less. but if you do go that route of repainting instead of replacement my experience is with an all metal object, using something like this is easiest:

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After removing the plastic bezel you spray the whole thing with the aircraft paint stripper and the paint starts to lift almost immediately, then you use a vinyl spreader tool to scrape off the paint, then you use something like acetone or other paint thinner to finish up and do a final wipe down. after that you can primer and paint, but to me like I said, I don’t think it’s anywhere near that bad right now so don’t blow it out of proportion.

I think about this as cost of paint supplies and time invested when I measure the value of these kind of projects, sometimes it gets out of hand fast. I’m thinking in US dollars but like $14 paint remover, $10 primer, probably $20 worth of paint to do it right. bottle of acetone $10. 2 packs of tack cloth, $5. Wax and tar remover or naptha around $10. Satin clear coat $10. Then if you don’t intend to do any other finishing work on it, just the amount of time to invest and hope that you don’t get a bug in it while you’re painting. So that’s like $79 investment if you don’t already have any of those things at your disposal, I think the face probably costs less than that. You could do it ghetto and just use one can of spraypaint but in the longrun it’s something you’d regret, I’ve done that in the past and it never looks right after a year.

your_lamp · 2023-10-18T18:59:59.381Z

This is a design upgrade I can get behind.

PofM · 2023-10-18T21:18:14.559Z

shigginpit:

can at least point you towards the paint brand which most closely resembles this

I would be amazed if anybody in a Warhammer shop recommends anything except their own brand of paints. Games Workshop didn’t get profitable by recommending other brands!

shigginpit · 2023-10-18T21:21:41.049Z

Something I thought of is that it might be easier to just mask everything off and use the rolled tape edge feathering technique and to just dust a little bit of matte clear coat over the existing black. As long as you can’t see the metal through the black right now, the clear coat should only add a bit of texture, it shouldn’t add any depth so you might get a decent match that way and even if a little goes over the other lettering, it’s clear so it shouldn’t obstruct them or be too noticeable. Something like the SEM matte clear would be good because I like their product but anything similar would proabably work.

amazon.com

Amazon.com: Sem Products 1K HS Matte Clear (15 fl. oz.) : Automotive

Uzinusa · 2023-10-19T08:51:35.838Z

I’d like to see a full repaint of this in Vantablack: Vantablack

HoojerBob · 2023-10-19T08:56:34.050Z

Just stick some black electrical tape on it.

Lum · 2023-10-19T09:43:31.792Z

haha! I was think the same thing laying in bed last night.

shigginpit · 2023-10-19T10:00:32.030Z

it’s not a great video but all the good ones are like 20 minutes long, just to clarify the concept though. I actually do this with a bit more of a “roll” than a “fold” like how they show, but it’s the same concept.

You can find more instruction on youtube if you need some different perspectives.

Pablo76 · 2023-10-19T12:27:28.061Z

I prefer the “just paint over” method
Need to disassemble for this though. Warranty is long gone so nevermind.
Also, replacement faceplates are available at elektron if I ever want to go back.
(Except for the back though.)

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Lum · 2023-10-19T13:17:23.577Z

Well…

I prefer that method too…

Tchu · 2023-10-19T15:02:41.216Z

Pablo76:

I prefer the “just paint over” method

Yeah but where are your Kick, Snare, Tom, Clap, Cowbell, Closed Hat, Open Hat and Cymbal?

d4ydream · 2023-10-19T15:09:26.704Z

I think you should just go in the opposite direction with this whole painting thing:

blech

Pablo76 · 2023-10-19T15:29:32.077Z

WOW!

Pablo76 · 2023-10-19T15:31:25.176Z

Damn, now that I think about it.
Gues I’ll just go cowbell on T1-8 and do the rest via external gear and midi.