To be honest I wonder how different the Cube 30 clean and JC-40 sounds. I believe the Cube 30 was based on the JC-120. Probably in the ballpark.
If you’ve been using a Cube 30 and the volume works for you, I’d imagine the JC-40 will be fine for you. Like you said though, nothing beats trying them in person.
The JC-40 will be a big improvement in the looks department anyway.
Ok gassin to beyond the beyond. Schecter 8 is OUT. Setup, fretwork, nut all nit great for a $1600 guitar. So i returned it, started looking at other options, really wanted a strandberg 8 but they dont make em in lefty (so i got a 6 string boden that is mind blowing.
Agile multiscales get pretty good reviews so i got one of those for 1k. Sustain is so so good. Best ive ever had on a guitar. Excellent unplugged tone. So i knew it was a keeper.
So within 24 hrs i decided it needed the ergonomics of the strandberg, the plain wood needed a better color, the poly neck felt not as good as a tru oil neck and was on thick side. None were deal breakers but i said EFF it!
After and before pics of how i lost my mind and modded an agile nirvana chiraz. I am crazy! I have 2 basses coming as well:)
And what a dramatic 24 hours it turned out to be! That’s quite a commitment for the first date and I’m very impressed with the results. Hope the marriage works, congrats!
I bought a JC-40 for my partner several months ago, and it makes an awesome pedal platform…of course it hasthe classic Roland chorus, as well as overdrive, reverb, and vibrato (OD is so-so in small doses; definitely not my ideal choice though).
As far as volume, if you’re a gigging musician playing smaller venues (and getting mic’ed up), it should be good (of course depending on genre, etc). I’ve seen plenty of bands rocking these in smaller venues (think sub 500 people), and I think it’s a great option.
I don’t know if I need a new guitar or to just simply improve on my technique, because when I’m trying to do chords on my current guitar, I keep accidentally muting some of the strings with my fretting (left) hand. Thankfully my technique does seem to be improving a little, although I’m also conscious of the fact that I need to keep my wrist straight and relaxed too.
I know some guitars seem to have necks with a more consistent width and are quite thin, some might be priced a fortune though, and I don’t know if it’s simply because I’m paying for the name and/or the labor. On the whole I think the quality of guitars has improved but I do know some manufacturers can and will cut corners somewhere.
I’m mainly in the market for one or two pedals but it’s not a dealbreaker if I don’t get anything new for a while. I just hope my technique can improve a little more faster, I kind of want to perfect that more before I get into like learning theory (which I hope can help me with music production).
Guitars can have different nut widths which will affect string spacing at the nut. Width can also differ at the bridge which can matter for folks who play finger-style. The depth of the neck can also affect how your fretting hand feels. Proper hand position can also play a role in how cleanly you can finger chords. Size of hands/fingers can play a role as well.
What kind of guitar are you using? Has it ever been setup well by a good, trusted guitar tech? A good tech can turn a guitar that plays poorly into a much better instrument. If you haven’t done that, it’s certainly something to consider.
You might also try going to a shop with a bunch of guitars and seeing how they feel. Take a few minutes and figure out what your guitar’s nut width is, which is an easy thing to find usually, and then use that as a point of reference. Play some other guitars and see what happens.
Another big factor can be string height (action) and gauge. If you have a guitar with really high action it’s harder to press them down, and this gets worse if you have heavy gauge strings.
You can (usually) get a guitar tech to lower the action on your guitar, and also try experimenting with lighter strings.
Personally, I like lower action and lighter gauge strings. While Fender guitars have always been my favorite (started on a strat, tele was my main guitar for years), I actually now much prefer shorter scale length guitars, I find them a lot easier to play. If you are in the market for a new guitar, I would say try different scale lengths.
Technique plays a big role as you say, but you can also modify chords. For instance if big bar chords are killing you, try playing the notes, but without the low E and A string (you’ll need to modify the grip of your fretting hand), but it’s much easier to play without getting dead notes. You actually stay out of the way of the bassist if you play them this way as well.
The Harlem headless guitar from Gear4Music. Comparable to Thomann’s Harley Benton range perhaps. It plays and feels alright, not sure how long the stock strings will last before I need to replace them
The Traveler guitars interest me for the more consistent neck/nut width and slightly shorter scale.
Didn’t try it, I have 3 MT-2, (one for sale and 2 for stereo on drums), but I think the Heavy Menace is clearly above, the noise gate is the best I had, allowing quick stop or long notes (envelope follower based).
I’m mostly a fender guy and even my gibson has a fender scale length, but I’ve wanted a mustang or duo sonic forever. Those short scale guitars feels so smooth and slinky to play.
I had a late 1960’s teisco tulip for a bit, which is also a student sized guitar. Always liked the 3/4 size instruments like the duo sonic but they’re too small to be practical for someone over 6ft tall.
There’s a guy who makes 25.5" mustang style guitars which is pretty cool. I’d like to try one out even with the 3/4 sized body.