That guitar demo wasnât very convincing⌠stereo separation was very subtle. Needs a proper synth demo.
Edit: found one-
That guitar demo wasnât very convincing⌠stereo separation was very subtle. Needs a proper synth demo.
Edit: found one-
Even though this is fun and cheap, I canât shake the feeling that getting a Boss DC-2W makes a hell of a lot more sense if you want some classic Roland chorus. Youâll effectively get the sound of the DC-2 Dimension C pedal and the sound of the Dimension D and youâll get stereo in.
Agreed. So much movement with those Dimension algorithms⌠also the MD-500 has those x2 plus many more.
Or even the CE-2W. The Dimension C/D effect is very nice (especially in D mode that sounds more hi-fi) but itâs a more subtle, widening/spread effect. The CE-2W is a really lovely thick analogue chorus effect. It is about three times the price of this TC pedal though.
I have a really hard time not getting both the DC-2W as well as the CE-2W even though I have plenty of chorus options including a really good UAD emulation of the Dimension DâŚ
Yeah, I was unable to resist and bought both.
The good news is, theyâre both great.
The v1 was miles away from the sound of the original Juno chorus. It was weird that they went all in on the Juno look and feel yet departed so far from the original circuit and LFO rates. This does sound a lot better. And the line level switch and stereo output option are
i think it was a design Fâup, it sounded more like a tremolo than a chorusâŚ
It was just kind of weird, because the v1 was announced and in development for a really long time, and then when it finally came out, it was just kind of⌠âhuh?â. I think someone somewhere made a decision that guitarists wouldnât want the actual Juno chorus sound, so they made the chorus more âobviousâ? I donât know.
Yeah, I remember looking at it and going wow i want that. But when I heard what was coming out, I was more like oh thatâs so bad actually. V2 sounds a bit better though, and super cheap as everything else behringer owned.
Iâm going to necromance this topic on up so I donât have to create my own only to receive 0 to 1 responsesâŚ
So despite the biblical flood of shit the tc june 60 v2 pedal gets, I like the way it sounds. when I set the internal switches for synth mode to slow down the LFOs to a useable range, I think it sounds good enough for what I paid for it and maybe not like a juno (it does not sound like a juno) and maybe not better than any other analog chorus pedal, but it does not sound worse (now that the lfo speed tragedy that plagued v1 was properly addressed ). So the point being, Iâve heard closer sounding pedals to the juno but I donât currently have a 600 boutique chorus pedal budget or 1600 to buy a juno that will need new sound chips when they fail a week after I buy it.
Here is my gripe, the june 60 and the 60 v2 are fucking worthless on the floor due to the huge level drop between the true bypass off stage, and the pedal circuit engaged stage. Sure you can use the pedal with the chorus off and keep the circuit engaged but I donât like the way it mutes the natural tones of my guitar or any synth I use it with (cry cry) so I was wondering if the 1 person who will respond to this has any opinion on whether or not adding a buffer stage either as a dedicated buffer pedal in line with the effects chain, or a buffer added internally (soldered into the output stage of the pedal) would help fix the drastic volume level jump between when the footswitch is engaged/disengaged? if there is any other suggestion one might have which does not include the instruction to âthrow it in / throw it at / throw it out ofâŚâ I would be open to any ideas.
thanks
So if I understand you correctly does the level drop when you engage the effect? Iâm guessing itâs got true bypass switching? If so you could add an amp stage after the effect but before the switch so youâre boosting the output level of the effect circuit. Adding it before is prob just gonna overload the circuit. Thatâs if youâve got space in the enclosure and the ability to tap into the bypass switch? You shouldnât need more than a couple of resistors and caps and an op amp. With a few more passives you could use q dual op amp and use the second opamp in the package as a rail splitter if required
The effect is controlled by 2 juno looking plastic buttons which (I read) engage 2 triangle wave LFOâs - there is speed 1, speed 2, or with both depressed there is a mix of the 2 - the effect circuit is engaged with the footswitch, but the LFO effect within the effects circuit is not activated until you choose 1 / 2 or 1+2 which means there is no lfo, only a volume drop and a bit of tone suck when no LFO is engaged. The bypass is labeled as a true bypass circuit, and when the effect is bypassed using the footswitch, there is a significant difference between the signal level going through the pedal as to the level with the effect circuit engaged (footswitch switched on) but without the LFO applied.
So here is inside the pedal from the vague manual diagrams
edit: this is the schematic for the juno chorus that itâs supposedly based on, I donât know if that will be helpful for understanding whatâs going on with the pcb or not but here it is for posterity.
I broke down the pedal and here are pictures (with my POS cam) I took inside for reference:
you can see thereâs a reasonable amount of room to add something in and I have some small prototyping pcbâs and a lot of passive components but I donât think I have any transistors and I donât have any ICâs that I think will be useful for this so if you have the time to do so and are able to help me figure out what kind of opamp I will need and how to set it up that would be awesome. I assume the 4580R opamp in the picture is the audio output circuit? I hate surface mount components lol.
here are pictures of the component array on the pcb. I couldnât find a real schematic online unfortunately.
Itâs not a pressing issue but while I have the pedal open if you want me to verify something you canât see clearly just let me know. Thanks for trying to help out.
My first thought would be to mod the mix stage of the effect, fumbling around with the bypass seems a bit too complicated to me. Get a potentiometer or a toggleswitch to go from something like fully dry to the standard mix.
Usually the signal mixing is done with a pretty straightforward opamp mixer, so youâd not need many components.
Would be harder to determine where that mix circuit is though.
Also, I should add that Iâve attempted similar mods before, but only a few of them actually worked, haha
thanks for the input, what do you mean by standard mix? like, the mean level if I were to analyze and observe the db output of all 3 chorus speed settings and average them? do you then think the answer is an exterior buffer stage or is that not going to cut it?
The chorus effect comes to be by mixing a dry signal with a delayed signal. The delayed signal is fumbled around with the LFOs and whatnot.
If you just cut the delayed signal from the output mix you get the buffered dry signal, when the effect is running. If you disengage the LFOs youâd get the true bypass as before.
I hope Iâm making sense, I could do a quick mockup sketch of what I mean. Words can be confusing.
so the buffered dry signal is when the footswitch is engaged but no chorus button has been selected is that it? so buffering the bypassed signal either before or after the chorus pedal wonât make a difference?
edit - consolidated to one post:
no I get that the chorus effect is caused by 2 signals out of phase and the speed is modulated by the lfo, you donât have to explain that part, Iâm more just trying to figure out how to avoid the huge level drop when the pedal is bypassed, thanks for the help
Hereâs what I have in mind:
By modding the mixing stage of the âengagedâ effect, you do not get the level drop as you would with the true bypass. The delay and and everything would still be running, itâs just cut out from the final output.
In my estimation, the mod would require less soldering and parts than fumbling around with the buffer and bypass.