I just got a set for my OG Digitakt and it actual fixed the buttons getting stuck when being pressed down issue. And I’ve taken it apart to adjust the alignment so many gotdang times…
I ordered a set for my Syntakt but they’re currently out of stock and the Elektron offices are closed for the next 5 or so weeks? I mostly bought them as a precaution because Japanese summers can be brutal and I’m naturally crusty/greasy. Looking forward to replacing them as well!
I’ve had a similar experience! My 4 trig key on my Tonverk used to stick, and not it’s much much smoother at a lot more angles. Makes sense that it would, but still a nice addition 
TLDR - WD-40 actually worked for me. Stripped the gunk and not the paint. It looks like a new set now!
So I bought a pre owned Digitakt with very sticky buttons and gunk and stuff like fur and lint stuck on them. (Yuck)
Popped the buttons out and sprayed each of them them with wd-40 and then a good wipe with a paper towel and they are like a new set 
Tip - don’t get wd-40 on the metal faceplate or other metal areas - it makes the areas it touches look shinier and darker . The nozzle on the can is very generous and I got a couple of splotches on my faceplate so keep them far away when you clean the buttons
Tip 2 - the stuff actually made my Digitakt smell nicer too
Edit - Tip3 - test on your least favourite button first 
Great insight, going to try this on my spare set!
Note that there’s an odourless WD40 available for people who can’t stand the smell of WD40. Myth goes, several aircraft of a major civilian carrier were grounded right after serving for deodourising because crew refused to fly in a cockpit that smelled like WD40.
Just a suggestion for @Elektron Find out what polymer Boss use on their pedals because that stuff just gets harder and harder. The rubber on my 80’s thru 90’s pedals are harder than the metal part of the housing!
I’ve tried it and it seems to produce pretty good result at a first glance, however the scrubbing part is still pretty difficult and demanding in my case. Hard scrubbing with cloth. Should I let it sit for some time before wiping? Will try that tomorrow.
Letting it soak into the gunk for a minute or two helps . A couple of buttons were stubborn for sure!
The “No” button was the hardest for me took a couple of attempts to get it all out . Still has a bit of residue .
I also followed it up with a damp cloth wipe on all buttons to remove the wd40 traces …
So, the WD-40 seems legit, thanks a lot
Even Gemini has recommended it after my complaint that the initially recommended IPA doesn’t work well here.
For scrubbing, it seems advantageous to use credit card or similar to first scrub most of the goo and only then move on to the cloth to finish it.
For cleaning the WD-40 residue, putting buttons into a mason jar with dishwashing liquid water and shaking it a couple of times does the job.
Afterwards I just put the buttons into a strainer and flush it under a kitchen faucet.
Glad to hear it works !
Thanks for the credit card tip. Will use that to scrape off the stubborn “NO” button .
Organized a bottle Isopropanol and took my time cleaning with paper towel, (not drinking of course 
) here a short confirmation what it cleaned just fine, what not.
Octatrack MK1, all buttons, knobs, display, surfaces (the red imprints are more prone to ware off when rubbing, being careful not to overdo it, all looks like brand new)
Ableton Push2, Surface cleanable perfectly, including display and knobs, I unscrewed the housing to clean it separately because very sticky, the whole sticky mess came off, the rubber look is gone too, a black shiny plastic box appeared, total okay for the side i never look at anyway.
Dave Smith OB-6 (Oberheim), shiny as new but was not sticky anyway, as if it was made to be cleaned with Isopropanol.
Moog Sub 37, the massive sticky pitchbend and modwheel were focus to clean, they look fine after, still rubber black and and the gluey mess is gone. Keys, knobs and surface are looking shiny too again, no signs of chemical interaction, just all the studio dust gone.
Vermona Perfourmer MK2, no sticky problems at all, but hey when i am cleaning house anyway… took all knobs off (use a very flat knife to lift from below the knob while pulling upward, they sit super tight), took about 25mins just to take them all off. Then bathing the knobs in a cup filled with isopropanol, from there rubbing in paper towel one by one, use gloves if you figured that not out already. A paper towel soaked in isopropanol to wipe the housing worked fine too, no signs of any mechanical or chemical interactions on labels or coloring, so shiny again. The thing is build like a tank, honestly.
Waldorf Blofeld, nothing sticky, cleaning led indicators, surface, display and knobs works just fine. Tip: the metal knobs have a rubber inlay you can pull out and use as knobs (keep the metal shells somewhere), that way you have nice grip when you wiggle the data.
Eventide Space, kinda sticky knobs, taking all off, cup dunk procedure, rubbing dry one by one does it. Display and labeled housing no issues.
Eventide H9, nothing sticky, no chemical interactions, just don’t rub to much on the black plastic base, let the high percent alcohol do its work and wipe it dry.
iRig PRO Mk1 Audio-Midi box for mobile, total sticky mess all around, even the battery box, it isn’t sticky anymore but the labels are not as resistant as on any other device, basically worn off, well who cares - it’ss a toy anyway and not that complex to remember that the knob is for volume and the jack for input.
Faderfox PC12, not sticky but dirty cause of heavy use, all 97 knobs got the cup dunk procedure, rubbing dry nothing complain about, housing with labels no visible signs of being prone to isopropanol but clean as heck. Very nicely build.
There is way more to clean, Yo.
So I just tried to clean some sticky grime of my B-key with an alcohol prep and the whole coating came right off… 
Let’s see if Elektron wants to send me new one…
Lots of chat in this thread about how alcohol fully strips the coating. I do think elektron should be replacing sticky caps under warranty though.
Too late for me though. 
Anyway, I’ve already got a reply and they’re very graciously sending me a replacement B.
Yes of course, they will, €89 including shipping costs
So, I am testing “technical gasoline (?)”, which is supposedly the correct chemical to deal with the sticky buttons issue.
You might not have access to this pure chemical (pure hydrocarbons), it’s a bit specific to the cultural history of Czechia / Germany and maybe other neighbouring eastern countries. Not sure what branded product with additives is a close match to it western countries.
Anyways, it seems safe and working acceptably well, but only on the already badly sticky buttons (pictured left). Those that are still mostly fine don’t get striped of all the rubber, only the bad rubber is removed and healthy layer still remains (pictured right).
yes I have used this in the past but got rid of it as it very toxic and very cancerogenic
you do not want residues of it going through your fingers…
Report after 1 year of the detergent+warm water method:
The keycaps are still flat and comfortable.
No glue, no stickiness.
Even gave up completely the idea of buying new ones.
I ended up damaging a bit of the paint in the process but nothing much, just some tiny spots at the edges (like nail polisher after a few days on the nails ).
Here’s a poor screenshot taken from a recent video:
The tiny crackles don’t bother me at all.
I think it even gives it a certain punk charm Like: “This machine has seen things! It has history!” (the copium is strong)
Closer:
As you can see, the most damaged buttons where PLAY, Step 1 and the UP/DOWN arrows.
But that was my own fault: those were the last buttons I cleaned. I was already tired and started rushing. The other buttons are better preserved because I did them slower and more carefuly.
PS: Forgot to mention I’m the 3rd owner of it. It has at least 5 years of usage, but I suspect it’s more.
