Solid State Logic .. SSL Big SiX

I felt the same way about the mid EQ, but I’ve found a way to work them, and now I think they are awesome (atleast on channels 1-4).

The key, for me, is that they are to be used in conjunction with the Highs and Lows in the bell setting. The mid allows you to shape the bells. For example, if you want a big boost of air, but don’t want to add too much presence, make a big boost on High, and a slight cut on Mid. Using the MID eq in this way, the broad Q is actually a massive advantage and not a hindrance.

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I have a big six
Now I bought an iPad and Logic Pro for iPad.
I send my outputs from my a4 mk2 to my ssl big 6
Without iPad it works very well
In Logic I fail, (in ableton it works)
If must be me, not understanding logic
In ableton, I set a channel to ‘in’
What to do with logic, to use it as a 5 (stereo) channel multi track mixer with my b6? Some resources will help me a lot. (Sorry for this noobyness)

the darkest day here people. my BS has died on me.
it was one from the very first batches. it had the common power glitch everyone knows about, which was cured with the retrofit in January. I didn’t find the rhythmic hum thing particularly annoying to live with, but there were phase problems and well, why not fix it if solution is available?

alas, it seems now that the retrofit introduced its own problems which led to the sad end. after the installation, I noticed the G-comp glitching every now and then, reacting as if it was engaged and overloaded even w/o anything hooked up. this went away after power cycling the unit. sometimes twice or more.
later I saw the BS doing weird led-dimming after power up sometimes. so I feel it has to do with electricity supply to the board. my mistake was not to get in touch with SSL immediately — both problems described didn’t emerge too often, so I went on playing, thinking it will be this way and now get worse, cuz you know, why should it? the (electrical) system looked stable, even if the glitches are a part of it.

it turnt out not so stable: today instead of just switching on, it went into the constant power-on-and-off REM dream, leds pulsing in unison at 60bpm :wink:

we’ll see what SSL has to say. but as I’m out of the EU, and out of the 12 month warranty, my mood is gloom.
I loved the device. might buy again even if they deny me any kind of support/return/repair.
alternatives would be more expensive, though I’m contemplating going for a Metric Halo converter with some outboard stuff, or Cranborne 500r8 — it still feels easier and more productive just to have a BS+some outboard stuff for mastering/finishing touches atm then to assemble smth like BS for less channels but more versatile and much more expensive even if we talk 2 stereo and 2 mono paths. but it’s something one should consider, especially if 2ch is enough.

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I’m so sorry to hear that

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I can relate to this story, but a similar behaviour started before I installed the retrofit.
One day, after a long session, I was overloading the input to saturate the sound and the whole thing went crazy, similar to what you described, dim lighting, comp glitching, meter not matching what was happening.
I opened a ticket, but I unfortunately did not film anything and the next day things went back to normal.
I’ll definitely report back if this happens again and I’m :crossed_fingers:that this thing doesn’t die any time soon…

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did you also update the f/w?
I now recall that I did it before installing the retrofit, and the compressor issue might’ve appeared then too, hard to remember now.
but regardless, in my case I’ve never really overloaded the unit

also, the SSL support replied to me and they claim they’ve never heard about the issues like that, and their bet is on the faulty PSU.
but then engineers chimed in, and I think they misunderstood my unit’s symptoms, but FWIW, they suggest that it might be a power issue with +/- 15v power rails inside the unit (the main power switch is an electronic switch with overvoltage and reverse polarity protection, but it doesn’t actually carry 24v to the board itself…)
if the engineer is right, it would require 4 caps and 3 resistors change — nothing overly complex, but two of them need two soldering irons used simultaneously, and scope testing — so definitely a job for someone with experience and tools.
hopefully it all comes down to PSU ))

I’ll update you guys how it turns out

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I didn’t even realize you could update it until the post above, and now I’ve tried to do it over and over and keep getting this. I’m on an M1 Mac, nothing else connected but the BS. I wrote to SSL, we’ll see what they say, but has this happened to anyone else?Screenshot 2023-06-02 at 2.51.17 PM

did you also update the f/w?

Yes, I updated right after I bought it.

I’ll update you guys how it turns out

:crossed_fingers:

yup happened to me too
check if it’s actually the old f/w still. I can’t remember now how I got around the error — either it worked on the 3rd trial or was it the erroneous fail message (while it did in fact update the f/w)

but — and it’s a big but — to me all problems started after the update
so maybe just forget it?..

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LOL perhaps I will, mine is working fine

It’s on 1.07, maybe you have to bring it up to an intermediate firmware first or something?

Anyone using ssl b6 with Logic ipad?

I used it with Logic Mac, and with iPad running AUM, it all works fine

I think mine was on 1.07 too — or earlier, as it was an early batch. there was no other f/w updates available afaik just the one they recently provided. so must be something else.

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I had to use my wife’s windows laptop to update my firmware when I had one fyi. Couldn’t get it to work with my m1 macbook pro.

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:face_with_symbols_over_mouth:

it did work for me in the end. mbp m1 too. so it’s possible.

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Is everyone else’s Mono button running about 6dB louder than the stereo mix?

I usually compensate by hand when I press the button, but just curious if everyone’s is the same?

I’m pretty sure that folding to mono boosts by 6dB in every mixer or DAW

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Jup. I use DIM to compensate

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I’ve been doing this this morning, works perfect for checking mono and stereo at the same relative level with DIM set to -3 and pressing the DIM and MONO buttons simultaneously. :ok_hand:

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