Screen replacement RYTM MKI

The screen is beginning to dim on my RYTM MKI.

I’m out of warranty.

Is there a replacement screen available?

Have you tried support? They’re super helpful and reasonable with costs.

If you’re looking at an off the shelf, DIY replacement there’s a chap on ebay that does a few versions of it (black on white etc.)

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Why would you contact support if they put the same screen in it? Then you have the same problem again after some years of heavy use!

I tried here as well.
Thank you

Nothing is built to last forever mate.




I replaced mine using the black and white one available on ebay, it is actually more like white on dark blue but much clearer than the original screen.



It is not an easy job to do if you have never done this kind of work before, but it should not be to hard to find a tech who could do it. Basically you need a good soldering iron, a solder sucker, and patience, it took me about 20 minutes to remove the old one and about a minute to put the new one in. Let me know if you need any more info.


looks mint that :ok_hand:t3:


Thank you so much folks.

@derenager Thank you for the images and success story.

I’m going to follow your lead on this.

I’m sorry to rez this thread, but I’m wondering if anyone has any instructions on replacing the screen on the analog mkI series. I’ve had a replacement for my Rytm for a while (2 years) and still need to swap it out. I just never found anything that really made me feel confident in doing it myself.

Thanks in advance!

Well if you don’t feel confident then probably best to get a tech to do it.

Easiest and less risky way is to desolder from the screen side rather than the main PCB side, but it depends if your replacement screen already has the pin header fitted or not, if it does then probably best to very carefully desolder the old one from the Rytm PCB.

Using a desoldering gun is definitely going to make the job much easier especially if you have not done it before.

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Right, so by tech, who would you contact? TV repair place?

TV repair shop, or mobile phone/computer repair place is probably more common nowadays.

Also check your local area for hack/maker space clubs as they would most likely have all the equipment needed, and most would appreciate a donation of tools/materials/money I think.

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BTW I’m selling my MKI with the screen already fitted:

Just to follow up:

I sent my device to Elektron and they replaced the screen with the aftermarket screen I bought. They did this and shipped it back for $75 or something.

Elektron is my favorite company at this point.

Great machines and amazing customer service.

Never change


I’m sorry if I missed it but is there a step by step on how to do this? Elektron just sent me a new screen for my mk1 but I have no idea where to start… Thanks a lot guys

I’m going to do the screen replacement next week/whenever i get a new screen here. My plan is to desolder the old lcd from the header pins, at the screen pcb end, and try to remove it without damaging anything. Hopefully it will mean i don’t even have to apply any heat to the control PCB. Only issue i can see with this method is the thermal conductivity of the long header pins might be high, therefore making it hard to melt the solder. People do a lot of snipping with side cutters to get stuff off pcbs and i really do not approve of that when there will always be a less destructive option.

Will report back.

@mat0322, you need a decent high temp soldering iron and a desoldering pump, and some desoldering braid if you can find it. My plan is to remove all the solder on the 22 pins which connect the screen to the board and then use pliers to depress the plastic mounting standoffs so the screen can be taken out and the new one dropped in place easily.

Go slow and take care is the best advice i can give.

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Oh, and a tip for desoldering: add a bit of solder to the joint you’re going to remove and whip it off while it’s still hot if you can, makes it much easier when there’s more solder mass for the pump to suck up. Seems like a waste of good solder maybe, but it definitely makes a difference.

Well kids, don’t try this at home!!

I just spent a harrowing afternoon trying to get the screen out of my RYTM mk1, and now it’s broken. So don’t listen to my advice above, cos it’s rubbish…

I tried to desolder the header pins from the LCD board only, without having to snip anything, but it’s a total bastard to try and get all 20 pins loose, they’re in standard 2.54mm pitch configuration and the throughholes are tight on the pins, plus the standoffs holding the screen to the board are really grippy, so i thought i’d try the bottom of the pins on the main PCB. Big mistake! The ground plane on pin 1 makes it extremely difficult for a normal soldering iron to put in enough heat to melt solder into soldering braid, so that was a mess, and the rest were hit and miss. After about two hours i gave up and resoldered everything, checking i hadn’t made a short anywhere, all looks good. Reassemble the unit and turn it on… Display is blank! This is the orignal screen still mind, so should be working. I thinks maybe it’s the contrast, no dice. Fuck.

In the end i decide maybe i buggered the screen with too much heat, so i go back and eventually get the fucking thing out by snipping at the header pins and the standoffs, then doing the desoldering, then rocking the thing out without putting too much pressure on the main PCB.

Eventually i’ve got the new LCD in and soldered, all looking good. Put in a new header strip so it’s the same as original display mounting. Turn it on, screen is blank!! The machine still functions 100% as far as i can tell, but the display is borked.

So i’ve been probing around, continuity is good for all pins heading down to vias into the MPU, and what’s even weirder is that there is correct voltages and activity on all the pins according to the datasheet. So the MPU is ok, but the display is sitting there doing sod all. I’m stumped on this one, it should be working from what i can see…

Anyway, proceed with EXTREME CAUTION if you’re trying this yourself. I had the board on an ESD-proof mat, and a wrist strap on, and still something went wrong. So i have to open a support ticket now and fork out hundreds just cos i thought it would be easy to do myself…

EDIT: Well, an update of sorts: i put together a test rig using an arduino to drive the original LCD i pulled from the Rytm, and it looks like the controller chip has been killed by heat from soldering/desoldering. At least that’s the only conclusion that makes any sense. I have traced the data signals going into the LCD controller chip and then there’s literally nothing coming out of the control pins which go off to the LCD, they are all just tied high. What’s even stranger is that when power is on all the data pins are shorted. If i run a continuity check on them they all buzz to one another, which is really strange, but if there’s no power then there’s no continuity, so i’m thinking the front-end of the controller IC must be damaged, as this behaviour just doesn’t seem right. But it matches what i was seeing on the replacement LCD installed now in the Rytm, so perhaps i’ve used too high a temp in doing the work. The controller IC datasheet specifies working temp up to 75c and storage up to 125c, but no information for soldering temp, so it could be that it’s quite heat-sensitive. Oh well. Waiting on a response from Elektron to my support ticket, and i suppose it’s off to them for some proper TLC.