Screen Frame not straight

Elektron Gear Digitakt
1

Hi guyz , new elektron digitakt came this july and while a really love this thing i notice that the frame wasn’t staright near the center bottom of the screen to the half right (still bottom)

It’s descrete until im in light conditions where it’s really noticeable …

I contacted elektron but they said it’s in “tolerance built marging” , but man when you noticed some it is all yoiu see lol

Anybody noticed this on his deveice ? do i send it back and plkay lotery with (other QC issue being possibly introduced in next unit ) ?

Thks

P2
P21920×1440 190 KB

Here next to syntakt to show you what im talking about
P_20250802_144137
P_20250802_1441371920×1440 260 KB

1 Like
2

I think you just need to remove the plastic film off the glass. I don’t see anything else.

1 Like
3

I see it. It’s not the plastic screen bezel, it’s instead in the area of the face place around the screen bezel which frames it. There is a section on one side which is slightly offset starting around the middle. It’s likely an artifact of the finishing process either from something being taped off before the topcoat was applied or possibly the metal was stamped unevenly.

I’m not really sure what to say about it. It’s really not our decision to make.

It doesn’t look like you can’t use it, but if you pay a lot of money and you feel it should be more regular in appearance on that part then there is nobody who can tell you that you’re wrong.

1 Like
4

I’ve seen this on a lot of Elektron devices and I agree it’s poor. I’ve returned one instance on a Digitakt that was particularly wonky. Believe it or not this one isn’t that bad. Frankly it’s a lottery as to whether a replacement device will be better or worse, I’m sorry to say.

(I think the white/blue screens are horrible anyway!).

2 Likes
5

I tend to agree about the screen color.

1 Like
6

Exactly my thougt , i did enginering studies , and i spot those “usinage” issues pretty fast … no big deal unless i drop 1000 euros on something , specially in those dayz of deep economic pressure . (don’t know if they cut with lsr or electro errosion(which i used a lot back then during studies) but the plate my have moved or some during process .

Hence my concern … i also returned one syntakt with faulty screen (lines) to get one that wasn’t aligned (screen )with frame (they aknoledged it and fixed it)

This is why each timle i hear people bashing the “made in china” i start to laugth , everything made in china been 100 % straight from day on ein my studio , but my iridium , elektron ect … expensinve devices all had QC issues …

That said my RME been solid as f …

As you guyz mentioenned … problem being the next one might have worst and so on and so on …

1 Like
7

+1 on screen color , while i usally like white and black , the yellow one seems easier on eyes and more contrasty)

1 Like
8

I don’t know if you’re comfortable with tools, like screwdriver / hex wrench. One option is maybe have them send you a replacement only for the metal face panel and replace it yourself.

My Digitone (original) had a problem that was a manufacturing defect. They were able to send me just the face panel as part of warranty and I installed it myself, the warranty not voided.

I think if you were to consider that option, they would have to look at the panel they send you so maybe it’s easier to make sure it has no manufacturing defect when they look at the part first before sending it.

I don’t know if you want to do all that, but it’s one solution which allows you to keep your machine and they don’t have to exchange the device in total, which costs them less and will probably agree is a good resolution.

It’s not as fulfilling as a customer, to have to do your own work on the device, but the other benefit is that you are not without a device for weeks or a month, so I thought I’d mention that they did this for me once in the past.

1 Like
9

I asked this at start , but they didn’t wanted to go this road as i can send it back (today last day) … is it hard to change plate (i suspect the only issue is to disocnnect screen and repalce ?)

1 Like
10

The physical act of opening and using tools is simple. 6 screws on the face panel release from the chassis.

Bottom PCB is screwed to the classis and has the input/output jacks etc and also has the processor so all the brains. Top PCB has the buttons, the pots, the screen etc.

Two ribbon cables connect them. Molex end terminals which are easy to release with your fingers, no crazy clip in design terminals. Very straightforward for this part.

The back has something like 9 or 11 screws, different hex size than the face panel, slightly larger.

You open the box. Lift the top carefully. Release the ribbon cables. Now the top is free.

You pull off the knob caps, set them aside. Flip over the panel onto a soft surface and undo all rear screws which hold the UI PCB to the face panel. Face panel has cylindrical turrets behind it which project out and which are threaded for the PCB screws to insert from the rear.

You take the new panel and line up the holes with the PCB and soft insert the screws, only to finger tightness.

Now is the only part which is delicate:

The PCB with the buttons must be lined up very carefully so trigs and other buttons do not rub on the edge of the cutouts for buttons.

The way I do this is to tighten the screws enough for a little bit of movement between the PCB and the face panel, not not enough to move on it’s own, only if I’m pushing on it.

I look at the top where you can see the screen, and hold it in my hands like you’re carrying your dinner plate to the table to eat. I push on the buttons to see if they rub and if one does, I make a small adjustment by using my hands and fingers to push the PCB from the side and using the other hand to make sure it doesn’t go too far, only as far as I choose.

The first time feels a bit awkward but I’ve done this to reposition the PCB against buttons rubbing several times and now it seems fairly simple, so I think it’s only the fear of making an error which makes us timid. The process is however very safe and the technical difficulty is very low, it just requires some patience and an understanding of the mechanics which make the faceplate align with the buttons (X/Y axial movement creates or lessens the gaps around buttons and all have to be aligned for good clearance).

Finally, if all buttons push without rubbing, then finish tightening the rear the additional 10% with the wrench. Plug in the ribbon connectors. Place the face panel on the chassis and align the holes. Insert 6 screws and finished.

I can show you a picture sometime if that will help, so let me know if you ever need that.

1 Like
11

Seems do able , but in their email they said that my issue is seen by “crew” as in the tolerance don’t know if they will accept .
I would happily send it back to them for them to do it also , they’ve been fast last time (syntakt)^ and very cool

12

Guyz i noticed something else , my syntkat (almost 2 years old) are stiff , while those on the digitakt are way looser … is this the case with enew units (digitkat digitone ) or it’s a faulty unit ?

13

Hello,

I bought another Digitakt 2.

My screen has the same problem.

All Digitakt 2s I’ve owned have had the same screen issue.

I’ve returned all of them because of this problem.

And now it’s happening again.

As you can see, it’s happening on all four corners. You can press down on it with your finger. Unbelievable for this price range.

image
image2272×1704 748 KB

1 Like
14

Really? It’s a shame they can’t glue the display properly…

15

Yes and remove the Screen Protection Film is Not an Option😎
Made in Poland.
To all Tonverk Users. Are your Screens ok?

16

You can press but it will come back to this position , meaning that it’s the screen protectioon imho that is not 100% flat …

My synakt has this , and i has been serviced (famous faulty screen)
No big deal , ignore and move on /… you’re right for the price the screen should be at least Softube Console lvel , crisp colored high res and better mounted …

at least you have a symetric thing , mine is up one side and straight the other
Again i was focusing on it first , but now it’s noitcaeble because i had to look at it because of your post :wink:

1 Like
17

What exactly was repaired on your Digitakt?

As I see it, it’s a design flaw, and the metal casing isn’t flat.

Please run your finger along the casing below the screen. You’ll feel an unevenness on the left and right sides. This is also visible if you look closely.
Same on Syntakt and Digitone2

image
image1576×2100 502 KB

18

This! And what do psychotherapists or Yoda recommend to unhappy users? Maybe “Look into the mirror and imperfection you will see.” :sweat_smile: :wink: