Octatrack MKI encoder issue - jumping values

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I got DeoxIT Fader Grease to fix the same problems your having and it did the trick :+1:

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thanks, i’ve found this video.

i thought the picture you posted was actually from the video itself.

Im gonna try repairing it this weekend.

cheers

No, the photo is of one of my encoders.
I had thought about making a video with the complete tutorial for this repair in the past, but I don’t think it’s necessary since watching a video like that, which shows the disassembly, and understanding that you just have to straighten the legs of the encoders so that they make contact, is enough.

It’s an easy repair, just be careful with the out tips that hold the encoder enclosure in place; don’t bend them too much so that you can reassemble it properly. The best tool for straightening the inner legs is a wooden toothpick.

Good luck!

thank you very much for the tips !!!

hi Lucas,

Do you think its worth the trouble to just buy the replacement pots and replace the encoder shaft and bottom plate etc ?

Also what tools did you use to bend the metal clips that hold the encoder enclosure in place?

thanks!

if you have the right tool to unsolder the socket you can certainly exchange the whole encoder without destroying or bending anything. You could either take desoldering braid, or solder wick, hold it onto the socket-pins and carefully heat them up one by one and let the braid/wick do its capilar effect (soak up unwanted solder). Or you take a Desoldering Pump, which you use to soak up liquified solder by manually releasing of its earlier bushed button (to generate an uplift force that takes the solder away). Once the pins are free of solder you can carfully remove the whole encoder in its entirety. The Ultimate Guide to Desoldering : 7 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables

Just practise before with something real, maybe buy one/two encoders and a practise plate, solder it on, then desolder them. If you can do that with confidence and the result looks ā€˜clean’, you are good to go. And it should be noted many places where soldering tools are available also often have a renting service - because the mor expensive soldering irons (with better temperature control an sharper tip) are the real deal. Only one simple rule to follow, don’t heat up the green circuitry board but solely metal, unless you want a burned plate.

Nope, the point here is that it is not necessary to desolder or solder anything.
Encoders start to malfunction because the internal legs bend too much when the encoders are pushed in, causing them to lose pressure, but the parts are usually fine overall and work perfectly for years, withstanding several repairs of this type. The metal material that holds the bottom and top parts together is also quite flexible and easy to open and close.
The tools I use… a small flat screwdriver and a wooden toothpick, that is.

:blush:

It is not a good idea to desolder and solder an electronic board such as the e elektron without having previous experience doing so. In addition, the encoders are soldered with a good amount of tin to keep them in place, and you have to do an excellent job of desoldering to reinstall the new ones. Not to mention the possible damage to other nearby components from the heat.

I repeat, opening them and re-bending the internal legs is a super simple repair, anyone can do it without any major problems, and it’s FREE.

i understand, but I was refering to just replacing the parts that are not soldered.

I noticed that the encoder itself when twisting have become lose and a bit wobbly. Just thought replacing the non soldered mechnical part will make it last much longer.

Anyways I will open it up tfirst to see what I can do.

Thanks!

i was more refering to your video in which the encoder is basically destroyed to remove it rather than just unsoldering it which in the video is happening later anyway. Of course if someone doesnt know how to properly confident desolder a component than it is better not to do so.

In other words, the linked video is the wrong one.

The video is not wrong; it is just to show how to disassemble the machine up to that point. Nothing else.

There is no video about the technique I’m talking about. It’s described in one of my posts above, where there’s a photo of the internal legs of the encoder.

Next time I have to repair one of my machines, I’ll record a video, but keep in mind that the original post is from March 2020 and the encoders have never failed me again, so it works!

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would indeed be cool to see the toothstick method in action.

I was just watching the vid above wondering why crack an encoder housing with a pincer, risking do damage the whole circuit by bending metal parts that certainly can crack the circuit copper layers apart without even noticing, because then the whole unit would be done. So it rather as a kind of warning not to go remove parts with a pincer and do it properly - unsolder. Nevermind.