Hey peeps, long time no see! I have an Octratrack MK2 where the encoder values on knobs A-F will occasionally skip - usually if I haven’t used the machine for a like a week or a month. I used it yesterday for the first time in a couple of months, and the encoders were skipping in the beginning of the session - then when I get to turn the knobs a few times over say a couple of minutes, the skipping will stop. And then, today, turning it on - there are no skipping values at all. All is well.
So, what could be causing this? I’ve been pondering oxidation of the pots, but wouldn’t the skipping then occur at all times? I have some DeOxit D100, but not entirely sure whether I should put some on or not (apparently it can wash away the lube).
I just find it odd that this only seem to occur when first using it after having not used it for some time.
It might have been some built-up dust, was the Octatrack unused on a desk for a while? Try gently removing the knob caps and blowing some some compressed air in there to start with, see if that eliminates any rogue particles which could have caused the skipping.
Yeah, I can try that, thanks! I’ve used it from time to time, so it’s been sat on a desk (with a dust cover) for long periods of time as well.
I bought it used 2 years ago and got it quite cheap due to the encoder skipping - it hasn’t really been a problem for me, but looking to sell it now to fund a Tonverk, so would want to find out exactly what is causing it and see if I can eradicate it permanently instead of having to sell it with a discount.
6 years! Damn. I did not know that. I thought I had been back here since then!
Ah, if it was sold as a unit with skipping encoders it could be something else. Hopefully the compressed air helps, if not, further work may be required.
Depending on what’s causing the skipping, Deoxit may help, but you have to be sure to use the right formulation. I’ll leave that advice to the experts.
Because digital encoders are precision components that behave differently from analog faders, volume potentiometer/analog switches etc, you risk to damage the part.
I’ve been meaning to interject. My first OT skips on a couple pots. Mostly the filter, because I use them a lot. Also because I press down almost Everytime I use the OT to get a faster rotation. I found a video on YouTube showing how to fix this without resoldering. You just remove the top part of the pot and pull the little springy fan part in there thashed together after years of pressi g and cranking. This is sort of last resort, but I like taking my gear apart, especially Elektron stuff. Anyways. That’s always a possibility. Good luck with getting it running smooth.
it depends from the issue - it could be due to debris - in which case I woud check with a mangnifier to see there is any of it and than remove it with a cloth and than twist the knob for a minute or so.
if it is due to mechanical wear over time, this is a bit more tricky because the mechanical track of the encoder is scratched and need to be replaced - I do not know if on the Mk1 the encoders are soldered or not, if they are not they can be easily replaced - If they are soldered they need to be desoldered from the board to be replace and it is a bit of a complex DY process.
In case of debris you could use a very small quantity of Fader 5 which is safe on plastic - it should be sprayed where the metal shafts is (close to the encoder body). Once sprayed make sure it dries properly and twist the knob several times until it is absorbed.
In some cases the lubricant can really do more damage than you what you would think this is why I was saying to be careful with it.
It’s not dust. I fixed the issue myself on both my A4 and AR thanks to a thread here on Elektronauts. Deoxit doesn’t help.
If you’re comfortable opening up your Octatrack, there’s a small piece of metal inside that gets slightly compressed after a lot of pushing and turning. If you gently lift it back up, the encoder starts working normally again.
On my AR, I actually replaced that part using new encoders, without soldering anything. I left the part that was soldered to the board in place and only replaced the upper section.
