@shigginpit I won’t thank you to remind me that my OT MKI is getting old (so am I, my 0303 birthday today).
(And I am absolutely not electronic repair expert).
I had more encoder problems with my former DT than with my OT MKI, but it is not perfect. A bit slow.
You need new encoders. My OTMK1 had the same issue.
All of them were exhibiting the same behavior. So, yeah… I shipped my unit to the California service center for replacements. It took months and they ended up only charging me for parts in the end. Luckily I had an mk2 to hold me over…
Well no way for me, too risky to send. I’d prefer to solder by myself.
happy birthday! which software version are you turning?
OS 0.48.
I am still on beta versions since I am supposed to be an adult, as a father forced to fit the system criterias.
Congratulations, hope your new year brings you many good things! The system does not know the aim of the firmware, only the count of the revisions. don’t trust too much in the UI, but write your own pattern chain for one more version!
Beta version is most useful to us, let’s us try the things we want without the prying eyes of the many telling us which bugs need repair
Well said. Thanks.
Going back to the subject, my priority is MD MKI big encoder repair ! (Tempo very hard to set, can’t see other related problems)
(Received 2 days ago)
Operational OT for now…
They’re pretty firm. I should mention that I’m not its first owner, and they haven’t changed at all in the time I’ve owned it.
I replaced all of mine but only Level and A encoders showed the behavior. It was a pain in the butt and took the most time to get them all cut apart and pulled. A good soldering iron helps and an effective solder sucker and some Helping Hands.
I have Hands and a really nice iron but having a crappy sucker really caused the project to drag. Eventually I just resorted to using compressed air to blow the hot solder out.
After that the OT was good as new
It is a little hard to tell from the video, just two observations. 1. I would be looking for different behaviour between the encoders, see if one is better / more responsive than the other. For example, from the video your A encoder looked to be the worst but hard to tell from a short video and not all encoders being moved. 2. I just tried my encoders on my analog keys, and I can move them fast or slow and they respond accordingly.
You may want to try a test start / test mode to see if there are any issues that the OS detects with the hardware.
I always look for wiggle on my encoders, usually if they are all firm, they should be in good nick but thats not always the case.
Is there a way of using mk2 encoders? The mk2 knob response feels much better
No.
If you are used to DT encoders or similar. Yes the Silver encoder work differently, but not badly.
Silver encoder has a fixed speed.
You need 4 full rotation of the encoder to go from 0 to 127.
You can take a pencil and mark the 0 hour on each encoder, then increase clockwise each encoder for 4 full hours and each hour give you +32.
Works counter clockwise as well.
If each hour does not give you +32 or -32 you have an issue.
If you don’t feel well with replacing encoder. Pay someone to do it. It’s difficult and they are not meant to be replaced 20 time. So replace them all in one shot it’s not costly and it’s better.
OT MK1 is very good in terms of DIY maintenance. Once they are start skipping etc, MK1 encoders are very easy to open them up and bring them back to perfect working order for another 5-6 years. On MK2 this is not possible, replacement and soldering is required.
My MKI encoder A started to get that way about 7 months after I got it, immediately after the same 2 hour car trip where it got cold enough to corrupt data on the CF card. Sicne then it hasn’t gotten any worse (it’s been 4 years) or any btter, but when it happened there was a very noticeable change. It behaves normaly when you press it, but when you turn it without pressing it has a tendency to skip vaues or not respond at all if you turn it to fast, especially if you’re editing parameters with fewer than 127 values.
It’s interesting that it’s pretty clearly from that one time when it got cold (around -5F for probably 90 minutes, since it would have taken a while to cool down inside of the hardcase in the trunk of a car), but not wear since I’m pretty gentle with it and the other encoders that get as much if not more use (level, encoders E an F) are completely fine. Makes me wonder if this specific make of encoder has something other than normal wear that can make them get jittery. The feel changed a bit, too - before the car trip there was slightly more resistance, and after getting frozen all of them move slightly easier (like the difference between a new, factory lubricated potentiometer vs. one that’s been sprayed with control cleaner but hasn’t been actually been opened up to replace the more viscous lubricant that the spray cleaner displaces), and looking at the photos above I can see that a lot of lubricant seems have leaked out into the the seam betweeen the upper and lower halves to the encoder casing instead of staying inside where it belongs. Not sure if that means anything, though.
The post above mine is great, I’ve never cleaned my OT encoders but I’ve done other encoders that way and it works very well. The last one I did was a very jittery Akai S5000 encoder back in 2018 and it still works perfectly since getting cleaned.
I know it’s hard to show this kind of thing in a video. I haven’t noticed much in the way of different behavior between them. None of them are acting the way that folks in this thread are saying they should. Test Mode didn’t tell me anything last I checked, but I’ll look at it again.
Thank you to you and everyone else who replied, I appreciate it. I wish I picked up on this closer to when I got it but hey, what can you do.
