Linnstrument

Mumdad · 2025-01-03T09:57:19.160Z

Haha, thanks for the thought! Much appreciated. I think if I do try it the used 128 is probably the best route since it does seem like you need to give yourself a bit of time to adapt to it, mess with the sensitivity settings etc.

Truth be told I really just want the Fatar polyAT keybed from the Iridium/Quantum to be put in either a standalone controller or a synth that makes sense for me to buy. It’s predominantly for my M, which I don’t think has the most robust MPE implementation quite yet so it’s probably better for me to stay patient at the moment either way.

protrusion · 2025-01-03T13:37:42.142Z

I think I have trouble with Y sometimes, needing to hit in the middle of the pad and not doing so. Some settings are designed to help (abs vs rel, for one) but sometimes I just turn Y off…

g3o2 · 2025-01-03T14:38:21.829Z

For this reason I usually use Yabs because it is not difficult to hit the bottom of a pad. Another thing: due to the small range granted to the Y dimension, one should be careful not to set a domain too wide on the sound source because the LS range will end up being too sensitive to small movements. So better to narrow the parameter range on the synth.

sezare56 · 2025-01-03T15:05:51.073Z

Yes. Y settings and modulation targets have to be chosen carefully, has to be subtle if you want realistic results.

Have to try again Y with GeoSwam Cello harmonics target tonight. I have to reverse and set min/max.

sezare56 · 2025-01-04T01:58:45.420Z

sezare56:

Have to try again Y with GeoSwam Cello harmonics target tonight. I have to reverse and set min/max.

Had to set min to 127, max to 126, 2 values because this harmonic parameter needed these values.
Change in the middle but not smooth enough of course.
(127 is normal, 126, 1st harmonic, 64 2nd, 0 3rd)

Bryan_T · 2025-01-09T03:08:24.827Z

I’ve been curious about these for years. I want a controller, but don’t like keyboards. I play a lot of string instruments, so the layout(s) make intuitive sense. I should probably get one.

tendingtropic · 2025-03-10T16:40:47.186Z

hi mates, new to linnstrument. is there a tutorial somewhere on how to set it up with external/hardware synths?

michaeljk1963 · 2025-03-10T16:54:34.896Z

Start here: Support - LinnStrument - FAQs

sezare56 · 2025-03-10T17:15:35.532Z

After FAQ, with the menu of the same page, choose :

https://www.rogerlinndesign.com/support/linnstrument-getting-started
Getting Started (Videos)

https://www.rogerlinndesign.com/support/linnstrument-support-panel-settings
Pannel Settings (detailed manual)

Per Split settings

Here you can learn how to set most important parameters: channels, MPE mode, pitchbend range, etc…

philroyjenkins · 2025-03-16T21:41:37.656Z

Looking for some thoughts. Sorry if some of this is already out there.

I got a push 3 recently and while I don’t need the ableton control as much, I find it fantastic as an input device. I think more, slightly smaller pads would be a huge win.

Can anyone directly compare the two? Especially with regards to settings for the pitch shift methods. The push lets you land on a pad in tune, or have the X value of the pad control tuning from jump (requiring tighter intonation) - both are awesome.

Anyone used the Linn with a Prophet 6 / OB6? The implementation here is kind of fuzzy from what I read. I’d love to be able to get that per note pitch variation / sliding while using something like pressure for poly AT uses. Maybe Y on the pads used for mod wheel.

I hear the range on the Linnstrument note sliding isn’t 48 semi tones? It’s kind of confusing, but on the Push3 I can slide to a new pad… and the slide is the same as the new note I land on. Can this be replicated on Linn?

sezare56 · 2025-03-16T21:55:18.569Z

philroyjenkins:

I hear the range on the Linnstrument note sliding isn’t 48 semi tones? It’s kind of confusing, but on the Push3 I can slide to a new pad… and the slide is the same as the new note I land on. Can this be replicated on Linn?

It can be set to 48. Can land on the same note if LS and other gear settings correspond.

cube48 · 2025-03-17T09:24:19.021Z

Anyone used the Linn with a Prophet 6 / OB6? The implementation here is kind of fuzzy from what I read. I’d love to be able to get that per note pitch variation / sliding while using something like pressure for poly AT uses. Maybe Y on the pads used for mod wheel.

Here’s what I did to squeeze out better expressivity out of P6+LS combo. It’s my favourite pair-synth now for Linnstrument even if there are others that can get deeper MPE configurations/modulations.

forum.sequential.com

P6 MPE revelation + bugs

philroyjenkins · 2025-03-17T11:22:25.664Z

Yes! This is exactly what I needed. Thanks.

The P6 is favorite synth for it’s directness and ease of editing. I do a lot of patching on the fly.

Adding even one more layer if expressiveness to what is already a very expressive synth would be huge.

g3o2 · 2025-03-17T12:12:56.963Z

The OB-X8 is also very decent in MPE mode when used in tandem with Linnstrument (or Osmose). Pitch is assigned automatically to MPE-X and AT sensitivity can be set on both Linnstrument and X8.

Only drawback, albeit minor: the X8 has a mono LFO, so it won’t be able to translate polyphonic touch. Not sure how the 6 trinity fares in this area.

As for the arp, Linnstrument’s (MPE!) arpeggiator can be set to respond to an external clock.

sezare56 · 2025-04-01T16:27:14.793Z

About to repair my Linnstrument dead USB port. Out of warranty.
Wish me good luck !

raindro · 2025-04-01T17:59:47.886Z

i took it too a pc repair shop to fix that, but the technician said it was pretty easy. good luck!!

sezare56 · 2025-04-01T19:20:27.784Z

raindro:

the technician said it was pretty easy.

Thanks @raindro but I spent 3 hours on it. I can’t remove lasting solder. I can’t insert pins. Thick PCB
Feel old, blind, and like shit.
I’ll will see that tomorrow before ruining it. Already a soldering carnage.

Scot_Solida · 2025-04-01T19:38:19.467Z

sezare56:

3 hours on it. I can’t remove lasting solder. I can’t insert pins. Thick PCB

What are you using to remove the solder? I sometimes find that I need to use a combination of solder removal techniques. Most often I use an electric solder pump that heats the solder and sucks it out. Other times I have to use solder wick. Sometimes both.

Is it double-sided PCB? Does it have a solder mask (i.e. a coating over the traces, usually green)? Are the holes still filled with solder? If so, you might try adding a bit of solder to the pad and then removing it, along with the old solder.

Feel old, blind, and like shit.

Don’t. It happens. A lot.

jemmons · 2025-04-01T20:07:00.902Z

Seconded. Adding new solder to old solder helps a lot. And I don’t think it’s possible to have too much flux. I’ll often solder just using whatever’s in the rosin core of my wire, but desoldering I always have to add flux. Not just to the joint, but also my copper braid. The trick is to get the solder to flow down the braid, and the solder is going to follow the flux, so make sure there’s kind of a flux path from joint to braid to down the braid.

And braid on its own is never enough to remove the part for me. After that there’s still a little solder in the thru-hole holding everything tight. I use a little solder sucker for that. All that said, I only have a success rate of ~50% for getting things off boards. It’s frustrating.

I gather the more consistent way to go about it is to melt all the solder simultaneously and just lift the piece out. But that more or less requires a hot air station (and kapton tape) which is an investment in money, space, and learning. I’ve heard of people having success with “chipquik” (which is a low melting point solder you mix with the joints to keep them liquid long enough for you to pull the part) but haven’t ever tried it myself.

Hang in there!

sezare56 · 2025-04-01T21:09:00.223Z

Thanks a lot @Scot_Solida and @jemmons.

I will try again tomorrow with flux I have.
The most disappointing is that I have all the stuff needed, not the skills, and I couldn’t make it. The PCB is 2mm thick or more.
Lasting solder in the middle.

I have desoldering braid and vacuum. Vacuum seems useless. I already fucked MD and OT traces once or two.

Roger Linn kindly answered me when I talked about the USB port issue, he told me the price of the PCB if I’d fuck it so it is even more stressfull. He gave me the USB port reference.

20250401_2258151800×4000 476 KB

I hope I didn’t fuck the PCB.

Cheers !

Edit :

Scot_Solida:

Is it double-sided PCB? Does it have a solder mask (i.e. a coating over the traces, usually green)? Are the holes still filled with solder?

Seems double side for USB port. And yes, holes filled with solder is the problem, as the PCB is particularly thick. And yes I added solder. And succeeded to solder the solder wick/braid/wire.

jemmons:

And I don’t think it’s possible to have too much flux

I am not used to flux at all. I thought it was for soldering, not desoldering.
I also have the pump, not sure if it is better than the desoldering vacuum.