My knowledge is quite rusty after more than 2 decades not involved with that stuff. I guess I can’t help without digging much deeper into the circuitry (not enough time yet).
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If the DC is regulated by dissapating the over voltage as heat (a shunt regulator), running 12 into something that expects 6 could work for the short term but burn out over time because of over temperature. (BTW this is a warning!)
A chopper sort of DC to DC conversion or other active regulators, would be more resistant longer term.
I surrendered up my EE degree years ago though.
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Which part is the voltage regulator?
The part labeled WE3510 looks to be a transformer with capacitors near by.
And that part # is labeled differently in the image @darenager posted at the beginning of this thread.
Is it this?
I remember someone from Elektron explaining that they decided to have OT mk2 be compatible with 12V to homogenize the PSU.
Everyone operating the dark trilogy once made the mistake to power an Analog machine with OT mk1 PSU.
Not answering your initial question, but Ill look for @Olle’s words 
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Is that a zener diode in the NW of the photo? You can use a Zener to shunt excess voltage.
Voltage regulator ICs often look like this:
And often that metal part to the right gets connected to some metal for heat disappation.
Save these photos, though hopefully you don’t need them for a repair later. I’m out.
I see 2 inductor chokes, 1 transformer, a diode, a suppressor, 4 ICs, at a guess I’d think U5 is the main regulator an LT1425
Here is the datasheet
But proceed with caution to avoid letting out the magic smoke @AdamJay
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@darenager
May I ask which spec in the data sheet leads you to advise proceeding (with caution)?
Is it the “operates with input supply voltages from 3V to 20V” ?
talencell are talented at taking the p!$s with uk peeps, that $23.99 pack (which look’s quite interesting, thanks adam) is a whopping £40 in the UK amazon store - same seller btw !
ps - don’t push your luck, i’d not risk it in the meantime, the gain is not worth the pain if you push something, even if it was seemingly within spec it’ll get hotter and maybe life sooner, i doubt you’ll get a green light from Elektron
Yea I think I may prefer an @Augenadler style modified step down converter mod to be safe instead. It is curious, though.
And on the off chance later produced OT1s had this capability, why not?
I blame @DonovanDwyer, whose dual Analog MK1 EIT-1 battery powered simple setup has inspired me as of late. I just prefer OT to AR
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Muahahahaha
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THIS. An external step-down converter (12V-6V) costs about $10,-/€10.-. It’s definitely not worth the risk in my book.
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Yea I haven’t plugged it back in since.
So something like this?
Take my existing dc cable, splice in half, connect positive and negative wires accordingly with this between both ends?
(I might even be capable of such a project)
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Yeah, something like this. Just make sure you get the polarity (+/-) right.
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I was looking at this exact thing a while ago for a mixer. Don’t see why it wouldn’t work.
It might be dependant on external resistor to set the voltage - I didn’t look in detail, also we can’t be sure if there are multiple voltages from the PSU board, for example LCD backlight, LEDs, memory/processor and so on could all require different voltages, some of the other ICs on the psu board could be responsible for bringing these voltages down to the relevant levels for the various sections. Looking at the ribbon cable from the psu board it seems to be the case - but I’m far from an expert on such matters.
Probably safest to bring the 12v down to 6v externally as you seem to be looking into now.
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To chime in: The OT MK1 and other 6V machines have a rather big input votage range. My OT1, both MDs I owned and the MnM were running fine on 12V, though the PSU parts (internal PSU) got a little hot though I changed them to internal 12-to6V converters to be on the safe side when using external PSUs with higher power ratings. The advantage ov having these is that you can even plug in 12V+, like a 20V powerbank or such in the machines and they just work.
Wouldn’t solder other VRs directly on the internal PSU, just put the boxed regulator inbetween input socket ind internal PSU and you’re good to go. Can be reversed easily that way and only costs a few bucks more.
hope you all are doing good.
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