I’m a walking fucking disaster mate.
Broke a rib pulling decking up a couple of years ago…
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I’m available to show up, drink beer and critisize. DM me.
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The only excuse for a half-arsed job.
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If you want to save some space, mass loaded vinyl 5mm and techsound are really good for adding mass. Decoupling and mass are best for sound reduction. Soundproofing store has this stuff in the uk. They’ve got informative vids on YouTube too. Doing my flat with stuff at the mo
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Maybe have a look at Steicoflex too
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I’m here for the discovery of unexpected gas pipes and a socket spur that inexplicably arrives at a diagonal.
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Fucking boiler’s right fucking there mate.
Inevitable…
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I’m doing some work in my kitchen right now and I pulled a skirting board off with a hammer and chisel and there was a pipe behind it. Couldn’t bloody believe it. Luckily I didn’t go with my first choice and use a saw blade on a multi tool…
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Some stuff for the garage when it’s done…
https://www.juliensauctions.com/en/auctions/the-florian-schneider-collection
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PIR is not ideal for sound insulation I’m afraid, it is way too light. Also one of the worst at keeping heat out due to the low thermal mass…
So for a box in a box system it is better to use rockwool, recycled cotton, cellullose (panels), … Make sure the outside of your walls is vapour-permeable (wood-fiber board or a technical foil), so any moisture can get out over time. You need some space between the old and new wall for ventilation and acoustic decoupling.
If wood starts to rot in a structure, the structure is not well conceived and you have condensation in the wrong places - or moisture can get in, but cannot get out.
In terms of thermal insulation, once you reach a certain level, ventilation losses due to air leaks are a bigger energy loss than transmission losses. In a complete box-in-a-box system with drywalls, you should be able to heat the space quickly. If you can install some sort of ventilation system with heat recovery (decentral unit?), you should be fine. Just make sure you don’t turn the ventilation into a massive soundleak.
iV14-Zero inVENTer
It’s important to decouple new walls from the exisiting structure with flexible joints. Use polymer glue (or special acoustic glue), don’t screw bottom, top and side profiles. Use heavy sheets on the inside, like fermacell. No OSB underneath, as you want the walls to be flexible. If you make them too rigid, vibrations will just pass through. Metalstuds are in fact technically better than wood for this. But of course, make sure they are connected like they should and don’t rattle.
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Haven’t you finished yet?
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in case it’s not been mentioned already, you’ll want to avoid making the room a perfect cube/square. it’s kinda the worst acoustically other than a circle. you’ll have a hard time getting a cube to sound even mediocre unless you make it absolutely as dead as possible w/lot’s of acoustic panels. even so, kind of a nightmare for making standing waves.
my advice is don’t rush the process. if you can decouple the ceiling and any connections to the house you’ll be in a good place for not transferring sound to the house. try and hold on to as much ceiling height as you can.
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Cheers @pitrak, lots of good advice in there, echoes a lot of where I was already headed with it.
Even by my slow ass standards, this is gonna be a while.
I’m the kinda guy that likes to hold in a shit for 3 days, really ruminate on it before it’s ready…
It’s likely going to end up a rectangle with two diagonal corners where the garage inexplicably changes direction on one side. Luckily I’ve got quite a lot of vertical room to play with, so the room can be pretty high, probably close to 2.5m after insulation if I want it to be.
One thing I am thinking of doing is constructing the side and back inner walls in such a way that there is a substantial middle section of fabric covered rockwool, both to deaden the room as much as possible and I think it might make the best use of the materials. So instead of installing the walls with the plasterboard (drywall, yanks) facing the room, have the plasterboard facing the outer walls, then fabric over the rockwool, but flanked top and bottom with plasterboard.
I dunno, seems mad to use all that rockwool behind the wall only to then use even more rockwool to build absorption panels.
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That would be a good title for this project
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Post Garage, surely.
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If I were doing the work, it would be called Grime
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Sweardance.
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Be careful, a weird rocket guy might show up with a pile of bad drugs hoping to reconnect with his ex.
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Don’t worry, Wiley would see him off in no time.
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Wiley, waving…