Would be cool to put the keybed into a case, which would connect to the synth part. So you could basically switch from DN Keys to DN Nokeys.
Or maybe better put the keybed with the extra knobs and buttons into a seperate case. Probaply much more easy then trying to fit the knobs onto the synth part.
In any case, we need to know what’s going on inside the DN Keys first.
There’s someone whose work i‘ve admired for a long time, that does that sort of mod all the time.
Beyond craft and into the realm of art.
You can see more of this person’s work here:
It’s all heartbreaking to see !
That’s easy! 
Looks great! 
Don’t spoil it for others to guess.
Ok. Sry.
Did you get the purple yellow and green one too ?
I’m really not sure about the pink one with teeth though !
What do you think this person might do with a Digitone Keys ?
What sort of colors should the DNK be ?
I guessed about 3 decades wrong, but close^^
That thing with the teeth reminds off the furby organ and other stuff Look Mum No Computer has done, but actually good looking^^
Hmm…what colours for a DN Nokeys…Dark blue with yellow or orange knobs and red buttons?
That’s brilliant ! Are you synesthetic ? That feels exactly right for an FM synth like that.
I was thinking all flat black. Total darkness.
ADDED: I’m not synesthetic, but i’ve had more of that kind of experience over the years as my mind becomes musically attuned.
No, are you? I just thought about which colours would describe the DN’s timbres best. At first I wanted to go for space theme (little stars, galaxies etc.) on black with yellow knobs and buttons, but dark blue with orange-yellow and red felt better.
All black would look rad, tho.
Really hope it’s just a ribbon cable connecting to a seperate pcb with the keybed and knobs/buttons. Then I’ll put a DN Keys on my list. Definitely.
Tear down pictures will make all the difference here. Or an exploded diagram.
It’s probably a multi layer board, might just be a dual sided board though. Either way experimenting/ practicing with some comparable junk boards as you suggest is a must.
As far as cutting boards goes, I’ve tried lots of things and have never been totally satisfied with any of them. Dremel with a cut off wheel isn’t bad. A coping saw with a jewelers blade makes a nice cut but is slow. Also has the advantage of being able to easily cut curves or odd shapes. Abrasive wire on a hacksaw is similar. Also a band saw or scroll saw set slow and with fine teeth, closely spaced. Surely you see the theme emerging. Small teeth spaced close together with a low travel speed or abrasion.
As for the box, I would think that would be the easy part. If you wanted it to be metal and you couldn’t find one pre made that suited the purpose you could make one from sheet metal. Cut out the shape of the box unfolded and then bend it up with a press brake. You can usually trade a friendly metal worker a six pack to let you use one. Otherwise it could be made of wood. Or maybe acrylic (glued rabbet joints?). Whatever the case I’d probably make a separate faceplate and rear control plate from steel or aluminum for the sake of ease and strength. Probably silkscreen/ stencil/ hand write the labeling (depending on desired look) and then clear coat it.
Good thoughts all. I might favor an overlay for the faceplate, particularly if it was made from two separate pieces of metal. (Though i’ve never had an overlay printed and cut, from what i’ve read it sounds quite doable.)
That’s a good idea. A lot of people complain about overlays but I’ve never minded them.
