Analog Heat (MK1) crackle when turning off filter

Hi folks - I get a slight crackle that I’ve noticed in a couple of recordings when I turn off the filter (doesn’t matter how it’s set when I turn it off) - it’s subtle but noticable. One of the joys of analog circuitry! I’m just wondering if this is normal behaviour or if I might have a dirty/corroded contact … and if anyone knows if it would be easy to access should I want to.

I like to swap between low and high pass during tracks and I’m not sure of a more graceful way to do it than turning the filter off and repositioning the cutoff.

Interestingly doesn’t seem to happen when I turn the filter on, just off.

Edit: If you jump to around 0:35 in this video you should see what I mean https://www.instagram.com/p/CajdFBIDGVL/

Have you raised a ticket with elektron support?

No I wanted to check if it was something experienced by other users first.

A tiny click or pop is normal.
A crackle isnt.

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aha semantics - it might be better described as a pop tbh - did you listen to the video? No worries if not but it’s likely better than my description :slight_smile:

Yes, sounds normal to me.

Think about what is happening, you’re sending the signal through a physical circuit, which shapes the frequency of the signal, then you’re removing that circuit in an instant. (On/off switch)

There’s bound to be a click or pop. Source material would affect the audibility of the pop, as would the other settings of the AH (drive amount, dry/wet etc.)

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Thanks for confirming! Yea it’s something I’ve come across in analog mixers before - but I’ve also come across switchable circuits that intentionally ‘isolate’ in some way to avoid this - definitely something I’ve seen in Eurorack switches/mutes. I’d have hoped Elektron would have done the latter but the intent may not have been that this be done as part of performance/during recording (or maybe its not as straight forward as I describe)

Hello guys,

Recently a MK1 AH popped on the local listings, but in the description it’s stated that the filter knob doesn’t work, and that the workaround is to use the knob under the screen, so there’s really not big of an issue.

What do you guys think? Is it hard to fix the knob? Does it really not bother at all because you can use the one under the screen?
Thank you for the replies!

Depends on your preferences, using the knob under the screen is basically the same as using the filter on a digitone/Digitakt etc. - so if you’re happy with that and the price reflects it then no bother.

In terms of repair depends what’s wrong with it I guess - that would be my only question really is how/why/what/when it stopped working. Pots don’t normally just die I don’t think.

That’s actually a good point, in the ad there’s no info of why or under which circumstances the pot stopped working. I will ask the seller. Thank you for the input.

Also consider how you might use the filter knob. If it is purely to dial in a cutt-off upfront and then leave it there for the duration of a song, then it should be fine.

But sometimes it’s nice to do filter adjustments or sweeps during a song, and with a dedicated knob it is easy and quick and predictable. With the encoder under the screen you first have to make sure you are on filter page, and if not, switch to it.

Maybe not a big deal, but something to consider.

Yea that’s the important thing tbh - funnily enough I just uploaded a video where I use the AH filter in combination with other filters in my setup (https://www.instagram.com/p/CfGnInPDDb6/) I have the AH on my master insert so use it in combination with the XONE filter to shape the whole mix. Probably wouldn’t be as comfortable with the encoders for me

But if you’re setting it and not fiddling with it then I don’t think it matters personally.

Right, so I asked the seller about it and he assured me that the unit hasn’t been dropped o hit or had any liquids spilled on it. He says it just stopped working properly and that’s it. It’s being sold at $500, do you guys think it’s a good deal? Take into consideration that everything here where I live is usually up to triple the regular US price, for instance, the AHMK2 is sold here at $1500 USD.

Afraid I don’t really know the market where you are but sounds like it could be a great price if that’s what you’re working with - the MKI’s are a bit cheaper than used MKII’s but the value holds quite well. As long as that’s the only issue it should be easy to resolve if you wanted it as well - a new pot won’t be very expensive, just need the time of someone that can replace it for you (assuming you can’t do it yourself). If it ‘just stopped’ working it might even just be a bad joint or connection somewhere; also a chance it’s not the pot itself, but something in its circuit.

And if you don’t care about that pot… then no worries!

I wouldn’t buy it honestly.
Who knows what else is mad in that unit, and money is money….

I would pass that.

Decisions, decisions…. :scream:

Honestly I’d probably go with @gekkonier s advice - my perspective is optimistic but it is probably a risk you don’t need to take.

That you’re deliberating it at all probably tells you your real answer :slight_smile:

Yeah, you guys are right, I think I’m gonna pass on this one. Thanks for the advise!

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